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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | B. Dougherty, Art Higbee, August 1974 |
Page Views: | 10,216 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This is a great route with fun sustained climbing but I give it two stars because the rocks not as clean as some of the more popular routes. But if your looking for a moderate route with no one else on it that's not to far from camp, this might be it. (Note: it's easy to stretch out the pitches described below to go faster as the route pretty much goes straight up with no traversing).
P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)
P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)
P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)
P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)
P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)
P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)
P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)
To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.
P1/2: Climb up some lichen covered blocks following cracks and flakes to a right facing dihedral, belay here or continue up to the bottom of the large left facing dihedral above and belay. (5.7/8)
P3: Follow the large dihedral with some wider jamming to a belay stance. (5.9)
P4: Continue up the dihedral to another belay. (5.9)
P5: Step right and continue up the main dihedral with more stemming and jamming. (5.9)
P6: Follow thinner cracks and flakes to a large ledge on the arete and belay. (5.9)
P7: Climb a shorter pitch up a crack to the right of the arete. (5.7)
P8: Follow awkward flaring cracks and grooves to the summit ridge and belay. (5.9)
To descend scramble south from the summit and look for a bolt anchor on the west face. These rappels only require one 60m rope with bolt anchors all the way down.
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