Wildfire 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Paul Landrum, Ken Currens, March 1975 |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006 |
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Shirley leading Wildfire.
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Description The crux of this classic climb is the first half of the route. Insecure feet and thin fingers in the tight starting dihedral lead to a ledge at halfway. From here, a somewhat easier finger crack ends at a steep jumbled headwall. Rap anchors are just right of this, around a blind corner.
Location West end of Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River).
Protection Pro to 2 1/2 inches. Passive pro tricky to place in the first half due to bottlenecks being very narrow and inward crack flaring. Cams work great in this section.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| Some body english helps through the start crux section. Then enjoyable hands and fingers until the eventual step right to the anchors. Fun, but I don't think as good as others on this wall. |
By pointy
From: at large
Dec 21, 2006
| I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors. |
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Save some small gear for the top, plus some slings. I didn't bring enough and the rope drag going to the anchors was kinda annoying. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Long slings on the last two pieces mandatory. |
By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 5, 2010
| I made the mistake of pulling the easy roof at the top, only to find no anchors. After my partner checked the book, I had to down climb to climber's right to get to them.
I liked the climb, but not as much as Badfinger, which is more continuous. |
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