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Shirley leading Wildfire.
The crux of this classic climb is the first half of the route. Insecure feet and thin fingers in the tight starting dihedral lead to a ledge at halfway. From here, a somewhat easier finger crack ends at a steep jumbled headwall. Rap anchors are just right of this, around a blind corner.
West end of Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River).
Pro to 2 1/2 inches. Passive pro tricky to place in the first half due to bottlenecks being very narrow and inward crack flaring. Cams work great in this section.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
Some body english helps through the start crux section. Then enjoyable hands and fingers until the eventual step right to the anchors. Fun, but I don't think as good as others on this wall.
From: at large
Dec 21, 2006
I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors.
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Apr 30, 2009
Save some small gear for the top, plus some slings. I didn't bring enough and the rope drag going to the anchors was kinda annoying.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 30, 2010
Long slings on the last two pieces mandatory.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 5, 2010
I made the mistake of pulling the easy roof at the top, only to find no anchors. After my partner checked the book, I had to down climb to climber's right to get to them.
I liked the climb, but not as much as Badfinger, which is more continuous.