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Wildfire Wall
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Wildfire 

Wildfire 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Landrum, Ken Currens, March 1975
Page Views: 1,884
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Mar 29, 2006
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Shirley leading Wildfire.
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Description 

The crux of this classic climb is the first half of the route. Insecure feet and thin fingers in the tight starting dihedral lead to a ledge at halfway. From here, a somewhat easier finger crack ends at a steep jumbled headwall. Rap anchors are just right of this, around a blind corner.


Location 

West end of Wildfire Wall (South side of the Crooked River).


Protection 

Pro to 2 1/2 inches. Passive pro tricky to place in the first half due to bottlenecks being very narrow and inward crack flaring. Cams work great in this section.



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Some body english helps through the start crux section. Then enjoyable hands and fingers until the eventual step right to the anchors. Fun, but I don't think as good as others on this wall.

By pointy
From: at large
Dec 21, 2006

I didn't find nuts that hard to place. I think that's mostly what i used through the crux. There's a natural thread at the top of the crack, before the step over to the anchors.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Save some small gear for the top, plus some slings. I didn't bring enough and the rope drag going to the anchors was kinda annoying.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Long slings on the last two pieces mandatory.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 5, 2010

I made the mistake of pulling the easy roof at the top, only to find no anchors. After my partner checked the book, I had to down climb to climber's right to get to them.
I liked the climb, but not as much as Badfinger, which is more continuous.