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Wild Works of Fire 
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Unsorted Routes:

Wild Works of Fire 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987
Page Views: 1,513
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 17, 2003
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The crack...

Description 

Just right of 3AM Crack is this splitter handcrack with a thin start and a couple of wider pods. The first move is bouldery, but once you're on the pedestal, the fun begins. Perfect jams lead up to some akwardness, then more fun jamming to the anchor. 1 rope will get you up and down.

I thought this climb was as good as any other line we climbed at the creek. It felt more like 5.10 than 5.11. Don't miss the rest.


Protection 

Rap off the 3AM Crack anchors and swing right to a 2-bolt bolt station 80' off the ground, and set up your TR. The guidebooks give this climb an R. It seems like the first 10 feet wouldn't be worth protecting as the rock is suspect but after that the pro should be bomber to the anchors.



Photos of Wild Works of Fire Slideshow Add Photo
from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: from the parking lot
fire
fire
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 30, 2003

I believe the "R" rating in the '99 guidebook refers to the section at the top that one used to have to traverse to the 3AM anchor. There is now an anchor atop Wild Works, eliminating this traverse. The route protects just fine.

By Brian Weinstein
Apr 5, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

this route was well protected even through the soft area near the beginning. nice hands to a pod where one needs to delve deep to jam and place. P1 ends on fingers to a set of anchors 80 feet up. P2 is the crux 11 pitch.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 2, 2005

It is probably best not to follow the guidebook's gear recommendation. You will probably want more than 2 sets of cams. One set of cams to a #3 Camalot, with 3 #1s and 5 #2s will probably make you more comfortable to the first set of anchors.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 23, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I was under the impression that the .11 rating was for the second pitch. The first pitch is .10.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

I also thought the R was for P2. P1 looks pretty solid and the rock at the beginning definitely looks good enough to toss in some finger pieces.

By Darren Knezek
Dec 5, 2008

FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987.

By tourjee
Apr 20, 2010

Just at the creek this weekend and the starting pillar of this climb has a loose detached block that appears solid but is actually cracked horizontally across the pillar. Definitely gonna pull off soon.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

At least there are a couple of decent rests on this one. Take lots of #2 Camalots and Friend #3s for the main crack section, smaller stuff at bottom and top. Getting up the pod 2/3 of the way up is really awkward, especially if you have big shoulders. UK grade tough E1 5b.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
2 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This route is great after doing 3AM. 3AM is a burl-fest, and pretty much the same moves the whole way (FYI, I loved 3AM). But this route is all creativity. Pods, flaring handcrack type overhang-y parts. A great and creative route! A nice contrast to 3AM.