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> Corral Wall - Left Side
Wild Wild West
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.9 from 16 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Geoff Archer & Louie Anderson, February 1990 |
Page Views: | 1,686 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 4, 2005 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures
Details
NOTICE OF PUBLIC CLOSURE:
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This was a fun route. I've heard it told that the route is 5.11 if you eliminate the obvious wide crack on the left. But why? You can sit in a no-hands knee bar while clipping the bolts, so it seems natural to do it that way. The 10c grade assigned here is accounting for that. The first few clips are close to the crack and if you do use the crack at first for a kneebar, or later for an arete-like pinch or slappy lieback/barndoor, the crux comes just after leaving the crack to go belly-to-the bolts. There is a small and relatively blank section of face (10c?). Finish on easier climbing to reach a solid anchor.
Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!
Rap to the ground to descend.
Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!
Rap to the ground to descend.
5 Comments