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Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
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Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
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Way Out West TR 
Wild Wild West S 

Wild Wild West 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Geoff Archer & Louie Anderson, February 1990
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005

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"Wild Wild West" climbs the center rib. ...

Description 

This was a fun route. I've heard it told that the route is 5.11 if you eliminate the obvious wide crack on the left. But why? You can sit in a no-hands knee bar while clipping the bolts, so it seems natural to do it that way. The 10c grade assigned here is accounting for that. The first few clips are close to the crack and if you do use the crack at first for a kneebar, or later for an arete-like pinch or slappy lieback/barndoor, the crux comes just after leaving the crack to go belly-to-the bolts. There is a small and relatively blank section of face (10c?). Finish on easier climbing to reach a solid anchor.

Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!

Rap to the ground to descend.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor or TR from the anchor. The bolts are pretty close together and the lead is not too "sporty".


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By Snupe
From: SoCak
Jan 4, 2011

FYI, the first bolt appeared to be loose ... not just the hanger, but the bolt itself seemed to have nearly about half a cm of give in and out of the sleeve/hole.
By Richard Shore
Dec 19, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

First bolt spins in the hole, and the nut can't be tightened. It won't likely pull out, just be warned.

Knee-barring up the chimney to the second bolt seemed like the natural line to me. I'd still give the slab part .10d though.