Wild West Homo 5.11a R
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| Type: | Trad, TR |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | First Lead: Dave Groth, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 6, 2006 |
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Devils Lake. Isaac Therneau on Wild West Homo on a...
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Description A very nice face climb right of Cracker Jack. Starts off the ledge, above Milking the Bull. Fun and not too crimpy.
Location Prospect Point
Devils Lake. Wild West Homo. Climber: Isaac Therne...
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| WWH. Climber: Isaac Therneau
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| Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L.
| Wild West Homo at Devils Lake. Darin L. at the cru...
| Ted Kryzer on WWH in the approaching storm. 07/25/...
| Fall view of Wild West Homo with Chris Eggert on i...
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| Comments on Wild West Homo |
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By David A Groth From: Lacrosse Oct 25, 2006
| FA lead & TR by Dave Groth in 87. Good gear but run out at the top. |
By Kris Gorny Administrator Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.11b R
| I guess I would give it an "R" due to injury potential. Slipping and falling from the difficult opening moves could be nasty. And if you cut near the exit of the climb, you'll likely deck on the ledge unless the belayer takes up bunch of slack. Otherwise really great route with bouldery moves throughout. The crux is well protected. |
By Paul Dieterle From: Pasadena, CA Oct 12, 2009
| what gear did you guys use to lead this? |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Oct 12, 2009 rating: 5.11b R
| Paul, IIRC grey alien first, green nut in crack about 10 feet up, and #3 BD camalot equalized with a superlight rock in the horizontal (or 2 #3's), but you should rap in and tinker with what works off your rack before taking anyone's word for it. The early placements are finnicky as I recall. I am told that this climb has seen deckage so make sure the placements are good. Protect your belayer as well with a small cam in the crack at chest height on the starting block as well. Go for it! |
By Trad Nanny Oct 12, 2009 rating: 5.11a PG13
| The gear to start was poor, I think a small brassie, then a good nut in the vertical seam, a couple of great cams in the horizontal and run out to the top. This starts on a pedestal and a fall at the start could be disastrous, maybe anchor the belayor? Bring everything you got and put in as much as possible. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Aug 1, 2012 rating: 5.11a R
| You can get a good nut, or really small cam in a thin seam to work as a directional, and protect the start. Heads up at the top, it's a big run-out! |
By Trad Nanny Aug 1, 2012 rating: 5.11a PG13
| Yay! Remo, are you getting into the business routes?!!!? What's next? |
By Ted Kryzer From: Rochester, MN Aug 13, 2012 rating: 5.11a R
| I do believe this route deserves a R/X rating. when i first tried this route on lead I decked (with some rope stretch) from the horizontal. The gear blew and the nut in the small vertical seam some how held. If it wasn't for my belayer Fred I very easily could have broken many bones and slid into the large crack at the base. The picture above is a half second before the fall. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 14, 2012 rating: 5.11b R
| Out of curiosity Ted, what gear blew? My gear in the horizontal seemed bomber, but I was glad to not test it. I was a lot more worried about blowing a move before I had gear in the horizontal. |
By Ted Kryzer From: Rochester, MN Aug 14, 2012 rating: 5.11a R
| I never got the chance to place in the horizontal. It was a small cam between the nut and the horizontal. I don't remember the size but it seemed okay. I blew going to the horizontal, worst possible place to fall. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 14, 2012 rating: 5.11b R
| Ah. I misunderstood. Yeah I can see that happening. Glad no harm done. |
By Kris Gorny Administrator Aug 15, 2012 rating: 5.11b R
| I tried looking up how "PG 13" vs "R" is defined. I found this: "PG13 – OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury", "R – Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when properly protected)". Not trying to split hairs here but long fall on Wild West Homo most likely means hitting the ledge, even if gear holds. Regardless of the consensus. |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 15, 2012
| Well heck.... if there is any concern by anyone that a lead climb should be rated with an R to denote seriousness.... it should rated with an R... much better to err on the safe side.. Ratings are guides for future aspiring climbers/leaders... In the case of WWH I agree with Kris... the ledge the climb starts off of (and the gaping hole between the ledge and the wall) are an undeniable hazard on this climb good pro or not... |
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