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Beacon Rock
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Wild Turkeys 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: FA 1970 Brian Holcomb, Neal Olson Glen, Kirkpatrick FFA July 27 2013 Matt Spohn
Page Views: 1,072
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Matt's rack for Wild Turkey's

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An amazing route with great position! The first pitch (10c) follows a neat dihedral system just right of the second tunnel. Several pitons protect the first dihedral, which is gained by scrambling up the mossy blocks. Keep going up and slightly right to gain the left side of "Beacon Tower."

The next pitch, amazing, continuously hard, and long (I'm a bit biased, but I would say again that this pitch is stellar), follows the dihedral left of the belay (which consists of one great bolt and one not so inspiring bolt). Climb the thin seam and pull onto some face holds (crux #1) and then rest on a slopey hold before entering a very balancey and techy section (crux #2). Relax and keep it together through the next 15 or so feet before entering crux #3, a pull of a left hand side pull to a good right hand edge! One more section brings you to the last 20 feet of 10ish climbing.

I pre-placed the gear for my lead ascent, primarily because of how thin the crack was and how delicate the placements were.

Location 

Just to the right of tunnel #2, up to Beacon Tower, then left into the dihedral.

Protection 

Two Pitons, Three #2 Metolius cams, small nuts, and a red and blue low ball (ball nut). I will submit a picture of my rack.


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By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Aug 29, 2013

Nice work Matt!
By Healyje
Aug 29, 2013

Matt, good climbing, but I'm not at all clear how pre-placed gear in any way makes for a remotely valid FFA claim, at least not if, as Opdycke says, we're still "keeping it real" out at Beacon.
By Patrick Fink
Aug 30, 2013

Sounds like you're about ready to go for the redpoint.
By peachy spohn
Aug 30, 2013

- Thanks Ryan!

- Yeah, Jim is a great guy and friend of mine, Joe. I'm super psyched he showed me the line and commended my FFA, or what ever else it might be called. I was going with the definition I know, (first free ascent (FFA) acknowledges lead ascents intentionally made more challenging by using equipment for protection only). Everyone is always going to have a different opinion and I am fine with that. I openly disclosed my pre-placed gear. No shame for me. You can call it what you like...FFA or a joke, but I'll be happy either way. The route was hard, I lead it, and I am happy about it. I am also super psyched to see someone lead it placing gear. That would definitely make it harder and way more awesome. Ryan, for instance, could do it.

- Patrick, I don't know you, but I would love to take you up there and get you on it. As I said, I am super psyched to watch someone lead it and will definitely belay you. I am on vacation, but will be back next week. Let me know if you want to go for it.

- I think climbers should probably focus on more important things than placing comments about others on MP. For me, climbing is the obvious thing. Thatís all I am going to write about this. Iím headed to Donner Pass! Climb hard.
By Healyje
Aug 30, 2013

It is again a good bit of climbing and the same issues were raised on the East Face of the Monkey with Watts pre-placement of gear vs. Trotter doing a real FFA. FFA does stand for 'First Free Ascent', but was never meant outside of the context of placing gear on lead and that's my only question in this instance. And so long as this isn't some kind of prelude to retro-bolting the route or the South Face columns in general I certainly have no problem with it at all.
By Alex Baker
Aug 30, 2013

This sounds like a great addition to Beacon. Matt doesn't seem to particularly care if it's an FFA or not. Respect.
By Billcoe
Aug 30, 2013

Congrats on the First Free Ascent Matt. I know 2 of the 3 FA dudes. In fact I ran into Neil out there just last year. I'm pretty sure that they would have OK'ed slapping in some bolts to protect a free ascent attempt. Had you done so and then clipped them as you freed all of the moves, it would have been acknowledged as a FFA by the community. Yet you chose to preplace the pro instead, and the rest of us climbing at a lesser level all know that it was much, much bolder and challenging for you that way. So even bigger props to you man. Any future aid climber still gets the benefit of seeing the route in it's natural state (this route is not climbed much at all on aid) and we won't be tempted to clip any easy bolts:-)

Respect to both your climbing skillz and your perpetual great attitude! Some of those kids you are coaching will soon be leading hard trad, it will be interesting to see how long till one of them flashes the route ground up onsight. Badassed either way. Good luck on knocking off the last of the aid lines.
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
Aug 30, 2013

Great work Matt! Proud send.