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Tantalus Wall
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Wild Turkey 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 483
Submitted By: Scott W on Jun 15, 2011

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AR on Wild Turkey as viewed from the belay ledge.

Description 

This is slightly left leaning shallow offwidth/flare. You end up getting good hand jams and finger locks galore all through it, which makes resting very possible anywhere, however, as there are no feet, it's a shallow, flaring and steep corner is it ends up being a total grovel fest of full body scumming, palming nothing and thrashing...pretty solid 35 meters of very sustained climbing, crux in the last 10 feet=) Once out of the flare you can head straight left on good ledge to dicey slab finish(10a/b-R I'd guess, I was puckered, could be 5.7) or straight up out of the flare(I haven't done this, heard it was 11c or so). This pitch reminds me a lot of the crux pitch of Alaskan Highway...prepare for battle.

I've heard this route called 5.11+/5.12- from several solid 5.12 trad climbers...I'm not that good but do enjoy groveling, so the 5.11a grade felt accurate to me. Very skills dependent I suspect. Absolute must do...kind of a day ender though.


Location 

From the start of the Tantalus Wall keep heading up the trail, up a gulley with some fixed lines. You'll hit the belay ledge that also has other lines on it. Most notably a 13a/b sport route on an arete, can't recall the name, but it's classic. Keep on past this on the ledge system, when you hit a nice platform and an intimidating looking slightly overhanging flare, you've arrived.


Protection 

Awesome gear everywhere. I took mostly small stuff, doubles purple metolius up to #3 camalots and one #4 that I place at first chance I got, 15 feet off the ground, never needed it higher up(all new style camalots), and triples from blue metolius to .75 camalots...placed everything I had. If you are decent with stoppers, I suspect you could sew this thing up real real good, I think I placed a few just to save cams for battle up higher.



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