Wild Things 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | John Storm, 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Zac Robinson on Aug 27, 2008 |
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(c) Andrew Burr
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Awesome route high up on the East Gate. Steep hands into a slot. In the back of the slot is a hand to finger crack. Work your way up the slot the best you can. I think I spun 3 or 4 times on my way up trying to figure out what might be the best approach.
Up above, the slot narrows to a squeeze and the crack in the back turns into a horizontal finger crack. Now is the time to get serious. Make the decision which way to face and then change your mind a few times. Work the finger crack, which has now slammed shut, out through the horizontal section.
Then figure out the beta to get to the nice, relaxing, less-than-vertical handcrack above the crux.
Protection good gear the whole way.
a few hands pieces for the initial section (#1 and 2 camalots)
I placed a #3 at the start of the slot and then some fingers pieces down to a blue TCU on your way out the steep section. Another 1-2 #2's and perhaps a #3 cam would be nice for the handcrack above and for building a belay anchor.
Head over left to the top of The Flakes and rap down the anchor there.
BETA PHOTO: beta photo showing the location of Wild Things.
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Rob on Wild Things. Thinking about leaving the sa...
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It really is pretty dang steep.
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BETA PHOTO: wild things, and sidewinder
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 27, 2008
| Great write up, thanks for posting! |
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 15, 2010
| Update on the approach.
You can still rap in from the anchors of the Flakes...
but today we managed to scramble our way up a few ledges and tiers until we were somewhat below and right of Wild Things. Some more scrambling and then we decided to rope up while we were at a decent sized tree with lots of tat. From there it was 5.something (I had a pack and approach shoes on...) to the alcove where Wild Things starts. I was glad to have a rope.
But that will get you there maybe somewhat faster than Tingeys Torture, or The Flakes.
The thing is still a ton of fun. Lemme know if you head up there soon. |
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