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Route immediatley right of Sigma. Follow right facing accute corner to roof. Pull through inobvious moves to somewhat runout section to top. Anchors on left wall or top out. Solid 9-10 trad-leaders will enjoy this--others may not.
Small trad rack from medium nuts and small cams to a couple mid-range cams.
|By Ryan Justen|
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This is a really fun climb. It is a very solid, sustained, and committing lead if you're near the 5.9 leading level.
There's tons of options for gear for the first 2/3 of the climb, but how solid are those flakes?!?!? I was happy I didn't fall to find out!
A #3 camalot is nice, and I liked having my #4 after pulling the roof, but I'm sure you'd be fine with BD singles to #3 and a couple medium/large nuts (BD #8 or 9 or something like that)
May 28, 2012
While one of the best 5.9's trads in the state (big holds, overhang, good gear) - it is a death route. Do not put cams on the flake on the right or you will have most the climb fall down on you. The huge flake moves if you put a cam in it, and it holds up the rest of the climb. I am hoping the originals would mark it or annotate the description.
I used 2 #4's, one to start and one once over the overhang. Also a #2 past the second overhang. Needs slings for the overhang.
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
--DO NOT USE THE RIGHT CRACK AT THE START FOR GEAR--
This has been stated before but I wanted to emphasise it. There is a big block to the right of the rightward facing flake/chimney that sits about 5 feet off the ground and is about 10 feet high. Placing a cam behind this is tempting but if you give the cam a pull you can see the entire block of rock move. Both my partner and I felt it was safe to stand on this block but if a cam wedged it off the wall the route would be a lot harder.
Oh, and I beg everyone not to bolt this route!!! Please!? This is a very unique climb (a well protected roof route that isn't rated super hard) and will surely become a classic at Sandstone!