Wild Thing 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Kevin McLaughlin and Glenn Schuler |
| Submitted By: | Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 27, 2009 |
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K. Mclaughlin and Glenn Schuler on the Wild Thing,...
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Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route starts on top of the ledge midway above Evil Genius. Climb awesome gator skin past bolts on the steep headwall.
Protection Bolts. Build an anchor with small to mid-sized gear.
By Pinklebear
Jun 6, 2010
| ĦAi, mami! So fun. There is no (fixed) top anchor directly above this climb, so take a little gear with you (stoppers and finger-sized TCUs) and you can build a belay up there in the summit cracks. I built a belay there, directly above the climb, then downclimbed right and clipped the two cold shuts and lowered back to the ledge. That way my partner, toproping, could pull out the gear upon summiting then downclimb to those same shuts, thread, then lower.
Alternately, you could just build a belay on the summit and bring your partner up. A 70-meter rope will get you back to the ground from those top shuts. |
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.11
| This route is deceptively steep, much steeper than it looks from the ground. If your stamina is up for it, don't miss out on this crazy swath of patina. The suggestion for supplemental gear up and to the left of the anchors is spot on for anyone who may want to TR this route. |
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