|The Alligator Lounge
This route starts on top of the ledge midway above Evil Genius. Climb awesome gator skin past bolts on the steep headwall.
Bolts. Build an anchor with small to mid-sized gear.
Jun 6, 2010
ĦAi, mami! So fun. There is no (fixed) top anchor directly above this climb, so take a little gear with you (stoppers and finger-sized TCUs) and you can build a belay up there in the summit cracks. I built a belay there, directly above the climb, then downclimbed right and clipped the two cold shuts and lowered back to the ledge. That way my partner, toproping, could pull out the gear upon summiting then downclimb to those same shuts, thread, then lower.
Alternately, you could just build a belay on the summit and bring your partner up. A 70-meter rope will get you back to the ground from those top shuts.
|By Dan G0D5H411|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
This route is deceptively steep, much steeper than it looks from the ground. If your stamina is up for it, don't miss out on this crazy swath of patina. The suggestion for supplemental gear up and to the left of the anchors is spot on for anyone who may want to TR this route.