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Wild Spider 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: 
Season: NOT SUMMER
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Rami Najjar on Dec 13, 2010

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Description 

Although some of the original good holds broke at the start, the route is still doable. Jugs, slopers, crimps, and even a dyno!! Starts off with a rumored v9 boulder problem which ends at the hueco. Climb around and past the awesome tufa to a difficult redpoint crux at the top!

Location 

2-3 bolt lines down right from Scorpion Child. It has a very chalked up volleyball shaped sloper near the start.

Protection 

Stick clip first and second bolt! The rest of the clips are all decent to clip off of. Good bolting.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 13, 2010

Rami, have you done Wild Spider? I know that Michael and Brian A have done it recently and had heard that they both thought it was 5.13d...instead of 5.13c. Having been on it, it seems possible that it could be harder than advertised. In addition, there is no need to dyno at the end...though that is what they both did.
By Rami Najjar
Dec 24, 2010

I am projecting Wild Spider and know the moves quite well. I guess your right about the dyno at the end, although i feel it is the best way for most everyone. I have heard stories of it being harder than 13c. I might as well just put 13+ because of its ambiguity.
By Austin Howell
From: Atlanta, Georgia
Dec 27, 2010

Two bits, I managed to skip most of the spinal tufa by cranking off a mono directly after the hueco... and that ending dyno seemed improbable... but I'm a VERY static climber. the static version bumped my right hand through two additional shallow two finger pockets before balancing myself to put my left hand on the finish jug.

In any case, it's a super cool route. Really one of the more fun climbs I've hopped on. Hard to speculate grade, its definitely the hardest thing I've pulled onto by a fair margin.