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Wild River
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Wild River  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Jun 5, 2007
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Description 

The name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here.... 140ft+ of beautiful granite in a wonderful wilderness setting, filled with proud lines; incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners.

Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. East exposure makes for enjoyable morning climbing in the fall and a chilly afternoon. Get to the crag early to avoid the very cold temp later on in the climbing season. In the Summer the eastern exposure is perfect for those hot humid days.

Climbing started at this crag in the '70s then took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The result is a variety of styles for anybody to enjoy. It has bolted lines, long trad pitches and absolutely no crowds! The lines range in difficulty from 5.10- to 5.13+. There are no easy warm-ups here as the easy stuff can be a bit run-out and very long and pumpy. Classics include: Wild Child (mixed, 5.11c), Blue By You (mixed, 2 pitches, 5.11a), Wild Life, and Big Red (sport, 5.11d).

I personally have seen (way too close up) a Timber Rattlesnake at the base of this crag. Beware.

Getting There 

From Freyburg, Maine, take ME Rt 113 to Hastings campground (about 25 miles) then go maybe a 1/4 mi. down the road to Wild River Road (FS12) and turn left, park at the trailhead. Hike SE on the Basin Trail past swampy areas and along a stream. Eventually you will see a huge 150ft cliff coming up through the trees to your right, go that way! Takes about 1hr if you are hiking along at a normal pace (2.5 mi/hr).

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 12.0 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wild River:
Big Red   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 145'   
Wild Life   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
Get a Life   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Wild Thing   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Wild River

Featured Route For Wild River
Big Red

Big Red 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NH : WM: Evans Notch : Wild River
Requires two rappels if you are climbing with only one line!This Route can be done in one or two pitches and offers one huge pump if you sack up and go for it in one pitch.The climb goes at a hard 5.10d if you aid the lower crux, so the crux isn't the pump it is the technical start and the demanding footwork it requires.Climb the steep face using flakes, liebacks, crimps and big moves to gain not great holds for small rests along the way. The crux is at the third of 12 bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on Wild River Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 8, 2007
Climbing at Wild River is truly a memorable experience. The hike in is serene and beautiful, as you follow a stream and you are waaay back in there. The climbing is superb--steep and long. Plus, I'd say Wild River is New Hampshire's best summer cliff, since it gets a bunch of shade.
By burlap submariner
Jun 10, 2010
"one of the true backcountry experiences in NH"...ahhh....glad you think so.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2010
Virtually roadside climbing !
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 2, 2011
What is the deal as far as new routing here? Is it "Wilderness", so no new fixed gear at all, or simply no motorised drills, but you can still use bolts if need be?
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Oct 7, 2011
yes - Wild River Wilderness

wilderness.net/index.cfm?fuse=...

Looks like you need permission to place fixed anchors

accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet...

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