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Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch)

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Wild River 

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Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch) 


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Location: 44.3278, -71.0218 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,172
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Jun 5, 2007
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Wild River Wilderness

Description 

The name of this crag does a pretty good job at hinting to what you'll find here....

Wild River Crag can be found Northeast of the Presidentials and North Conway. The only road to this crag is closed when snow makes it impassable and therefore climbing here is a summer/fall affair. Climbing started at this crag in the '70s but took off with bolted lines in the early '90s. The crags within the Wild River Area are filled with proud lines, incredible aretes, amazing faces, and awesome corners. Many very beautiful lines can be scored in this area.

This area is comprised of Wild River Crag, Laughing Lion Crag, and the Shell Pond Crags. The latter two being actually located just across the border in Maine.

Wild River is the main event of this area and most folks that make the trek up here spend their time pulling hard on its 140ft granite splendor, to be more throughly described on its own page.

The latter two crags are less climbed on and therefore much more overgrown and covered in lichen. I have no personal experience with the climbing at these two crags, so if anyone would like to contribute, please do!

Many of the bolted lines are long and require many draws and a 60m rope to get back to the ground. The trad lines require a full rack and then some.

This area is sometimes referred to as Evans Notch.


Getting There 

Find your way to Freyburg, ME.

From Freyburg, take ME Rt 113 to Hastings campground (about 25 miles) then go maybe a 1/4 mi. down the road to Wild River Road (FS12) and turn left, park at trailhead.


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch):
Big Red   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 145'   Wild River
Wild Life   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Wild River
Wild Thing   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Wild River
Browse More Classics in Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch)

Featured Route For Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch)
Big Red

Big Red 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  NH : Wild River Crags (aka Evans... : Wild River
Requires two rappels if you are climbing with only one line!This Route can be done in one or two pitches and offers one huge pump if you sack up and go for it in one pitch.The climb goes at a hard 5.10d if you aid the lower crux, so the crux isn't the pump it is the technical start and the demanding footwork it requires.Climb the steep face using flakes, liebacks, crimps and big moves to gain not great holds for small rests along the way. The crux is at the third of 12 bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch) Slideshow Add Photo
Wild River Wilderness.  <br /><a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Wild River Wilderness.
www.bagleyheavybags.blogsp...
View of the height of land in Evan's Notch.  <br /><a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
View of the height of land in Evan's Notch.
www.b...
Comments on Wild River Crags (aka Evans Notch) Add Comment
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By Casey Bald
Sep 16, 2007

shell pond is really overlooked, there are some good ice routes there in the winter too, at one point there was a article in "Climbing" that talked about "the secret crags of maine" and it listed a topo.....

By Anna C.
From: VT
May 7, 2009

Shell Pond is a pretty neat set of crags - a few one-pitch slabs and a huge bluff 200 feet high of orange rock and overhangs. It's pretty awesome and showed few signs of development. To get there: Drive up Rt 113, weaving across the NH-ME border, until about 1/2 mile before the AMC's Cold River Campground. Turn left onto Stone House Road, cross a bridge and bear right. Drive until you see a green road gate and park on the right (in early spring you won't make it very far after the bridge due to snow). Follow a jeep track for about 20 minutes, crossing a beautiful open airfield, and from the end of the airfield follow the Shell Pond Trail through an orchard and over a brook. From here you can see the crags on the right through the trees. Alternatively, turn a few miles before the Cold River Campground onto Deer Hill Rd. (closed in winter) and follow that for about five miels, looking for Shell Pond Trail and the crags up on the side of Rattlesnake mountain on your left. Bushwhack up to them and see what you can find! No idea about routes, first ascentionists, or anything like that. Please add if you know em!

By burlap submariner
Dec 29, 2009

anna, i believe randy rackliff had put some of the routes on the lower tier.

By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Sep 16, 2011

Hey Y'all. I've created a shell pond area in Maine for that awesome crag. If you have any info on the place please throw it up on the shell pond page, before it all gets lost to the obscurity of time. Thanks!