The Classic for the grade.
P1:Climb steep face holds up to a obvious horizontal break where you can find a weird rest for your fingers, but not your biceps(5.11a). Climb the crux of the route, an overhanging seam of broken rock with pin scars that supply interesting moves that will sap your finger strength like crazy(5.12a/b)! Keep climbing until you reach the anchor that is just short of the left facing corner.
P2: Climb the left side of the breathtaking arete making scary moves and eventually ending up on the arete way above the ground. Pull one move that is the upper crux (5.11d/12a, depending on pump) 5.12b if you connect the two pitches into one.
Incredible line. Make the trip up for this route alone, it is awesome, awe inspiring, and completely pure. This route should be on the tick list of all 5.12 climbers in NH, unfortunately it sees relatively few ascents due to the location of the cliff.
Look up find the dramatic left facing corner at the top of the cliff, this climb starts directly below it.
P1:10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
P2:6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Rappel wth two ropes, or do two rappels.
Chad coming out of the crux on P1
Freddie Wilkinson on the crux dyno of Wild Life Ex...
Tom Z. whipping off the crux on P2
|By bayard russell jr|
From: Madison, NH
Jul 7, 2010
There is a new chain anchor on top of the 2nd pitch, bring a 70m rope and do it in one long go! The rope runs great and there is plenty of rope to get back down by simply lowering off.
Jul 20, 2010
those are not pin scars..au natural
From: LA, CA
Aug 21, 2013
One of the best routes i've done in new england. It is very hard and a little sharp but the climbing and exposure are brilliant! Get out there and do this thing!