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Wild Life 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bob Parrot and Ken Reville '94
Page Views: 2,043
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Jun 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jack Tracy launching into "pitch 2" of the proper ...

Description 

The Classic for the grade.

P1:Climb steep face holds up to a obvious horizontal break where you can find a weird rest for your fingers, but not your biceps(5.11a). Climb the crux of the route, an overhanging seam of broken rock with pin scars that supply interesting moves that will sap your finger strength like crazy(5.12a/b)! Keep climbing until you reach the anchor that is just short of the left facing corner.

P2: Climb the left side of the breathtaking arete making scary moves and eventually ending up on the arete way above the ground. Pull one move that is the upper crux (5.11d/12a, depending on pump) 5.12b if you connect the two pitches into one.

Incredible line. Make the trip up for this route alone, it is awesome, awe inspiring, and completely pure. This route should be on the tick list of all 5.12 climbers in NH, unfortunately it sees relatively few ascents due to the location of the cliff.


Location 

Look up find the dramatic left facing corner at the top of the cliff, this climb starts directly below it.


Protection 

P1:10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
P2:6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Rappel wth two ropes, or do two rappels.



Photos of Wild Life Slideshow Add Photo
Chad coming out of the crux on P1
Chad coming out of the crux on P1
Slab Climbing!
Slab Climbing!
Freddie Wilkinson on the crux dyno of Wild Life Extension (5.12b). 2010. Check me out at <a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Freddie Wilkinson on the crux dyno of Wild Life Ex...
Tom Z. whipping off the crux on P2
Tom Z. whipping off the crux on P2
Comments on Wild Life Add Comment
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By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Jul 7, 2010

There is a new chain anchor on top of the 2nd pitch, bring a 70m rope and do it in one long go! The rope runs great and there is plenty of rope to get back down by simply lowering off.

By climberbob
Jul 20, 2010

those are not pin scars..au natural

By Bodyboarder
From: Salem, MA
Aug 21, 2013

One of the best routes i've done in new england. It is very hard and a little sharp but the climbing and exposure are brilliant! Get out there and do this thing!