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Wild Kingdom S 

Wild Kingdom 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1995
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 14, 2001

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Description 

Wild Kingdom indeed. Tom will fry in Hell for this, but when the time comes I'll try to bail him out with a glib lie - just because it is Tom. Wild Kingdom, runs up the cobbled bed rock immediately right of Wild America. The nifty sequence here comes in getting established in an untra-crunched stance in a right angling seam that is negotiated with no feet and a semi-decent undercling that has some widely spaced finger "locks". After a dozen feet of bicep buring, turn the corner on the right via good size jugs that are guarenteed to strip some flesh off your hands. The line stays sketchy until close to anchors as it remains continuously beyond vertical. Cool line, hard moves, and largely excellent stone kick up another killer line by the "Blonde Adonis".

Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.


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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 18, 2001

Not 12d.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 18, 2001

Tom Hanson listed Wild Kingdom as 12d in the guide, and when we worked on it it seemed quite difficult. However, I would find it easy to imagine that Anarchitect is considerably more difficult. These are very different climbs, so it is not easy to compare directly.
By kevin jenkins
Sep 8, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I hate to dispute rating. this is, without a doubt a mother of a route, and truly, you only get one shot at the hand-to-hand sequence before you gotta lower and chew on a Clif bar. But me thinks it merits a high 11, probably 11d. Though draining, the moves are fairly stable and good sized jugs help the security. Sorry Tom. Great route, though
By Tom Hanson
Jan 5, 2005

Kevin,

Wow, I thought this one was really tough. Did you use some other technique on the lower section besides doing an undercling, left to right traverse sequence? Perhaps I missed an easier way to do it. I am 6' 4" and had to have my feet right up under my hands to undercling right.

I am very impressed that you polished it off and felt that it was only stiff 11. Way to go!
By Tom Hanson
Jan 6, 2005

I'm actually 6' 2", not 6' 4" with a negative ape index
By Tom Hanson
Oct 4, 2005

I must set the record straight. I have never fully climbed this one though. I thought the moves required somone with a lower center of gravity than myself.
By kevin jenkins
Feb 28, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Tom - I'm sorry I have not checked this one out in a while to see your comments. I must first say that Tom Hanson is one of my absolute idols in Castlewood Climbing, and if it weren't for you, I'm not sure climbing in this neck of the woods would be what it is. Anyway, I'm 5'10", and did do the undercling sequence with a high leg, I remember that quite well. However, I did not match my feet, I had my left foot high, and my right foot flagged lower for stability. Ballsy, tough, and I'm not trying to sandbag, I just felt that despite the rough crux move, I felt the majority of the climb wasn't 5.12-ish, eh? I have been wrong once before in my life, and this may be a second, er...billionth error, but I stand by it. Kevin
By Tom Hanson
Mar 8, 2006

Excellent job Kevin,

Wild Kingdom must be one of those routes that just don't fit me.
I thought the lower traversing section was ridiculously difficult.
Thank for your feedback. I'll keep this in mind for future revisions of the guidebook.