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Wild Iris

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Wild Iris 


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Elevation: 8,800'
Location: 42.5792, -108.718 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 252,413
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jul 11, 2006
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Red Canyon on the road to the Iris.
Photo by D. Al...

Description 

Wild Iris is one of the most beautiful sport climbing areas in the U.S. It's hard to beat a warm summer day spent climbing the white limestone pockets of Wild Iris. And to top it off, you'll belay comfortably beneath a peaceful canopy of aspen trees. Sublime.

The climbs are mostly short, and occasionally sharp, but the climbing and experience is more than enough to compensate for these minor drawbacks. There are plenty of routes from 5.9 on up to 5.14, so most climbers will find more than enough to stay busy.

Wild Iris is located at Limestone Mountain at an elevation of 9,000 feet. The climbing season begins when the snow melts (early June) and can last into Fall. The high altitude makes summer climbing pleasant, but be aware that the weather can change at any moment - wind and cold storms are common all summer. Many of the climbs face south, so also be prepared for warm temps! Remember this is Wyoming - land of the extremes!

A number of primitive spots are available for camping, and an outhouse is located just up from the main parking lot. Closest supplies are located in Lander.

The Lander Bar comes highly recommended for food and drink - it's a climbing tradition!


Getting There 

Wild Iris is located 24 miles southwest of Lander on Highway 28. Turn off the highway on Limestone Road and head up the dirt road. Head right at the first intersection and that will take you to the main parking lot. If you cross over South Pass (when coming from Lander) you've gone too far!


Resources 

Wild Iris Climbing - Good information about Lander climbing, including condition reports for Wild Iris


186 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',76],['2 Stars',70],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',8],['5.9',9],['5.10',60],['5.11',45],['5.12',41],['5.13',15],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wild Iris:
La Vaca Peligrosa   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   OK Corral : Right Side
Red Rider   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
Take Your Hat Off   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 60'   The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
Claim Jumper   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
Gaucho   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Zorro Area
Easy Ridin'   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall
The Devil Wears Spurs   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall
Tribal War   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke...
Winchester Pump   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   OK Corral : Central (Blooming Rose, Cla...
Zorro   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Zorro Area
Hot Tamale Baby   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall
Choke Cherry Eyes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Gun Street : Cowboy King Wall
Wind and Rattlesnakes   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Main Wall : Rode Hard Wall
American Beauty   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 75'   Gun Street : Cowboy King Wall
Charro   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Main Wall : Hot Tamale Wall
Court and Spark   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport   Lower Remuda
Cowboy Poetry   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 80'   The Main Wall : Cowboy Poetry
County Ten Gunslinger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 30'   The Erratic
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Erratic
Atomic Stetson   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Main Wall : Rodeo Wave
Browse More Classics in Wild Iris

Featured Route For Wild Iris
Nice pockets at the bottom.

Court and Spark 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  WY : Wild Iris : Lower Remuda
A few slab moves put you under the white prow. Decipher the pockets and mantle onto the ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Wild Iris
Photos of Wild Iris Slideshow Add Photo
Top of OK Corral cliff band
Top of OK Corral cliff band
Sodas in hand, dirt roads, snowy mountains, and wild flowers: A rest day at the Iris.
Sodas in hand, dirt roads, snowy mountains, and wi...
Surveying Wild Iris at sunset.
Surveying Wild Iris at sunset.
Beautiful wild flowers near the Wild Iris...yes, the far hillside is completely covered in purple flowers. <br />Photo by D. Albers.
Beautiful wild flowers near the Wild Iris...yes, t...
View of main wall from the trail heading from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: View of main wall from the trail heading from the ...
walking in the white irises of wild wyoming <br /> <br />summer 2013
walking in the white irises of wild wyoming

summe...
The main area of Wild Iris as viewed from the Zorro Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The main area of Wild Iris as viewed from the Zorr...
This is what happens when all of Colorado shows up for a long weekend and makes-up campsites, instead if going elsewhere or using the city park
This is what happens when all of Colorado shows up...
Wild Iris sunset over the Wind River Range. July 3rd, 2013.
Wild Iris sunset over the Wind River Range. July 3...
This year marks the 20th International Climbers' Festival, and the celebration is going to be big. We have recruited a huge line up of presenters (Tommy Caldwell, Henry Barber, Emily Harrington, Timmy O'Neil, Expedition Denali's Erica Wynn, and Cedar Wright). Our clinic schedule features top athletes like Jonathan Siegrist, Audrey Sniezek, Eric Horst, Nick Duttle and many more! Though, the biggest anticipation of all is debut of the HIstory of Lander Climbing Documentary at the festival. <div style='padding:10px 0;'><iframe src='//player.vimeo.com/video/67092697?badge=0&byline=0&portrait=0' width='450' height='300' frameborder='0' webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe></div> <br /> <br /><a href='http://climbersfestival.org/tickets/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >climbersfestival.org/tickets/</a>
This year marks the 20th International Climbers' F...
The Southern part of the Winds taken from near Miners Delight
The Southern part of the Winds taken from near Min...
Main Wall & Ok Corral parking lot. May, 2014.
Main Wall & Ok Corral parking lot. May, 2014.
The hike in. Beautiful high elevation meadows.
The hike in. Beautiful high elevation meadows.
I came from Colorado, I don't have to heed the muddy road advise, I do what I want.  Why does everyone hate Coloradans?
I came from Colorado, I don't have to heed the mud...
Comments on Wild Iris Add Comment
Show which comments
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2007

Some bolts have been cut at Cowboy Poetry wall, but whoever cut them left the first bolt in place. I don't completely understand the intent of the bolt cutter, but I'm not a local. Sometimes the bolts really blend into the rock and are hard to see. This may be common sense, but make sure you can see the bolts and the anchors before starting any routes.

By India
Jun 28, 2008

There was a bear hanging out around the camp sites at Wild Iris this weekend. Please be aware, and extra careful with food, etc. in this area.

By Climbersfestival
Jun 3, 2012

climbersfestival.org/

2012 ICF Poster
2012 ICF Poster

By Climbersfestival
Jul 7, 2013

This year marks the 20th International Climbers' Festival, and the celebration is going to be big. We have recruited a huge line up of presenters (Tommy Caldwell, Henry Barber, Emily Harrington, Timmy O'Neil, Expedition Denali's Erica Wynn, and Cedar Wright). Our clinic schedule features top athletes like Jonathan Siegrist, Audrey Sniezek, Eric Horst, Nick Duttle and many more! Though, the biggest anticipation of all is debut of the HIstory of Lander Climbing Documentary at the festival. <div style='padding:10px 0;'><iframe src='//player.vimeo.com/video/67092697?badge=0&byline=0&portrait=0' width='450' height='300' frameborder='0' webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe></div> <br /> <br /><a href='http://climbersfestival.org/tickets/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >climbersfestival.org/tickets/</a>
This year marks the 20th International Climbers' Festival, and the celebration is going to be big. We have recruited a huge line up of presenters (Tommy Caldwell, Henry Barber, Emily Harrington, Timmy O'Neil, Expedition Denali's Erica Wynn, and Cedar Wright). Our clinic schedule features top athletes like Jonathan Siegrist, Audrey Sniezek, Eric Horst, Nick Duttle and many more! Though, the biggest anticipation of all is debut of the HIstory of Lander Climbing Documentary at the festival.


climbersfestival.org/tickets/

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013

We took our first trip here in July 2013 on the recommendation of the Wild Iris climbing shop in Lander.

Hands down, this crag features the most gorgeous free car camping I have enjoyed anywhere. Check out the sites on the right side once you drive down the gnarly camping access road below the main pit toilet.

As for the climbing, relative to the tufa-filled Thailand limestone I have enjoyed before, the white limestone of Wild Iris was much more technical and generally kicked my butt.

If you like short, steep sport climbs with hand holds that are 80%+ pockets of some kind with mostly Smith Rock-style thin edges for feet, you will adore this place. If that's not your style, you'll probably hate it (at least at first). In short, it seemed like a polarizing place.

The "Main Wall" is definitely the place to be if the weather allows you to be in the South-facing aspect all day. A long, continuous section of walls there may challenge your route ID skills (as it did ours even given the "Lander Rock Climbs" guidebook), but will offer endless route days for for 5.10+ sport climber.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Aug 15, 2013

If you are a regular climber at Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, or any of the other areas around Lander, and you are also on facebook, please go to the Fremont County Climbers Coalition on fb. Either be a friend or "like" us. That is where you will get posting on the ups and downs of climbing in the Lander area... anything from access issues to grizzly bear sightings. The more people we have come to the site, the better we can get the word out to the climbing community. https://www.facebook.com/fremontcountyclimberscoalition