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East facing wall, sunny in the morning. Secluded, with big views of the superstition wilderness. About 100-150 feet tall. About 200-300 yards north of Barks Canyon wall. Good rock. We used Jim Waugh's Phoenix Rock book and that was enough info to get there.
The approach takes about 45-60 minutes. Park at Peralta trailhead, and take the Bluff Springs trail until you are below the Barks Canyon wall (25-35 minutes). Instead of going up to Barks, follow the trail about a hundred yards or so further, until you see a small, brushy, dry wash come in on the left. Look up to the left and you can see Wild Horse wall with a prominent crack going up the center of the cliff. Hike up the steep hillside fairly directly to the crag.
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Excellent climb! Exciting to lead; I thought it was a bit runout on the mid and upper part of the route, and ALL of 5.9 (10A?). As with Wailing Banshee, a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt, though at least the landing is good. Start just left of the Bronc, and make a difficult, heady move to clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up for some thrilling and great climbing. About 80 feet up, step slightly right and climb an obvious 20 foot 5.7/8 crack to the top. Look ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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