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 ADVANCED
Piedra River - Lower West
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Black Beauty S 
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Chocolate Corner T 
Deuce S 
Different Strokes S 
Emotionally Involved S 
F***in' Greenies S 
First Wall S 
Full Body Brace T 
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Golden Seam S 
Graffiti Wall 
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Hopstacle Course S 
Huggy Bear 
I & Eye S 
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Lightning Crashes S 
Main Traverse 
Main Traverse 2.0 
Mild Hops S 
Moman 
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Raising Awareness S 
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Refuse To Suffer S 
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Silver S 
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Solo Slab TR 
Southern Cross S 
Tan S 
Taster's Choice S 
Thunder Will S 
Trigger TR 
Unknown 2 T,S 
Van Gogh's S 
Wild Hops S 
Winning Streak S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wild Hops 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: A. Scott/ original vision S. Price. Bolted together.
Page Views: 2,385
Submitted By: s.price on Dec 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Dad warms up on 5.12 high above the family - Hops ...

Description 

A small ledge offers a rest before crux of small edges to pinch and pockets. The rest is hanging on to the anchors. Wild Hops has perfect rock and is great fun.

Location 

This is 100 feet past F***in' Greenies on the next good wall. There is a small tree right above the anchors.

Please do not climb crack in center of wall as this is where the wild hops grow, and we like to use them for brewing. Who doesn't like a good homebrew?

Protection 

5 glue-in Fixe bolts to anchors. The first bolt is approximately 18 feet off the deck requiring 5.9 climbing to reach it.


Photos of Wild Hops Slideshow Add Photo
Tiny crimps through the crux. September 2011.
Tiny crimps through the crux. September 2011.
Dustin English starting the crux.
Dustin English starting the crux.
Todd Tumolo just through the crux.
Todd Tumolo just through the crux.
Great moves.
Great moves.
Brendan Shafer enjoys the small crimps at the crux. <br />Wild Hops (5.12-).
Brendan Shafer enjoys the small crimps at the crux...
Alex in the thick of it.
Alex in the thick of it.
Alex at the start.
Alex at the start.
Transition to easier but steeper climbing. Van Gogh's is marked for bolting to the left. See the face in the rock?
Transition to easier but steeper climbing. Van Gog...

Comments on Wild Hops Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Very cool climb! The rock is immaculate and the climbing is really engaging and fun. Since you asked, I did indeed send it (second go, couldn't pull off the OS). I think I met Alex at El Rito, NM, a few weekends ago and he mentioned this route. Needless to say, I was not disappointed. Congrats on finding such a great line.
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 20, 2011

This is such a cool & fun climb. Neat, thin, tecky moves through the crux and good endurance to finish the 5.11-5.1o climbing to the chains. I almost took a mega whipper trying to clip the anchors!!!!
By Williampenner
From: The 505
May 28, 2013

Best route on the wall. Nice job on the FA, although the first bolt is mighty high off the ground.
By issac overright
From: Farmington NM
May 18, 2014

My climbing partner had a large chunk of rock break off in the middle of the crux section and with it the one good foot, I think it made it a bit harder, maybe a letter or two. It broke off before my first attempt up so maybe someone who has climbed it before would be a better judge of how much harder it is.
By Gray
Jun 13, 2014

Partner broke off a jug going to the anchors on May 23 and took a considerable whip. Shouldn't make the route any harder though. I didn't climb it before the broken foot in the crux section but would think that this is harder than 12a. Then again, I don't climb vertical 12s very often.
By Pullhard
Jun 14, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I resent this route June 13. The piece of rock that came out near the crux section was a couple feet left of how I climb the route. I did not notice any broken holds near the chains. To me, this route is the same as it has always been and remains 12a.