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Piedra River - Lower West
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Unsorted Routes:

Wild Hops 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: A. Scott/ original vision S. Price. Bolted together.
Page Views: 2,124
Submitted By: s.price on Dec 2, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Dad warms up on 5.12 high above the family - Hops ...

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Description 

A small ledge offers a rest before crux of small edges to pinch and pockets. The rest is hanging on to the anchors. Wild Hops has perfect rock and is great fun.


Location 

This is 100 feet past F***in' Greenies on the next good wall. There is a small tree right above the anchors.

Please do not climb crack in center of wall as this is where the wild hops grow, and we like to use them for brewing. Who doesn't like a good homebrew?


Protection 

5 glue-in Fixe bolts to anchors. The first bolt is approximately 18 feet off the deck requiring 5.9 climbing to reach it.



Photos of Wild Hops Slideshow Add Photo
Tiny crimps through the crux. September 2011.
Tiny crimps through the crux. September 2011.
Dustin English starting the crux.
Dustin English starting the crux.
Todd Tumolo just through the crux.
Todd Tumolo just through the crux.
Great moves.
Great moves.
Brendan Shafer enjoys the small crimps at the crux. <br />Wild Hops (5.12-).
Brendan Shafer enjoys the small crimps at the crux...
Alex in the thick of it.
Alex in the thick of it.
Alex at the start.
Alex at the start.
Transition to easier but steeper climbing. Van Gogh's is marked for bolting to the left. See the face in the rock?
Transition to easier but steeper climbing. Van Gog...
Comments on Wild Hops Add Comment
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Very cool climb! The rock is immaculate and the climbing is really engaging and fun. Since you asked, I did indeed send it (second go, couldn't pull off the OS). I think I met Alex at El Rito, NM, a few weekends ago and he mentioned this route. Needless to say, I was not disappointed. Congrats on finding such a great line.

By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Sep 20, 2011

This is such a cool & fun climb. Neat, thin, tecky moves through the crux and good endurance to finish the 5.11-5.1o climbing to the chains. I almost took a mega whipper trying to clip the anchors!!!!

By Williampenner
From: The 505
May 28, 2013

Best route on the wall. Nice job on the FA, although the first bolt is mighty high off the ground.