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Cooper M. relishing the graceful flow of P.3
Wild Flower represents both the first ascent of the Bridger Jack Butte and its easiest route. Besides this, it's the rap line. The route follows flakes and corners for 2 pitches to the notch between the King of Pain and the main butte, and then takes the left of two obvious wide cracks to the top of the Wingate. The first two pitches provide enjoyable sections of climbing between ledges. The third provides excellent opportunities for character building.
Pitch 1: Begins just left of the high point of the dirt/talus in a L-facing ramp with a 4" crack-flake on it. A bolt (not original) is evident perhaps 30' up. Follow the line of least resistance to fixed anchors at 100'.
Pitch 2: Fun movement out from under a boulder, past another non-FA bolt, to more enjoyable (and more sustained) corners and flakes. Note the rope grooves at the top of the pitch. They look like they could just grab right on to a knotted rope, don't they? A 5" piece comes in handy. 120', maybe.
Pitch 3: Yes, that. Easy chimney to a squeezer, 50'. The trauma has been reduced with the addition of a couple bolts at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks, but you'll still want a #6 camalot before the first and after the second. This, 2 draws, and a #5 Friend should do it; the rest just gets in the way. If you backclean the big one after the first bolt you won't need the 2 that Bloom's guide calls for.
Ascends directly to the K.O.P./BJ notch.
Descent: single-rope from summit to 2. DO NOT use the old belay/rap anchors at the base of the chimney unless you want to repeat the classic stuck-rope prussik maneuver enjoyed by many; rather, look for a newer set of chains about 10 feet lower and closer to the King of Pain. This will enable you to reach the ground in one 60-meter rap; reportedly a 70m rope will barely work in two raps (see Powders commentary).
2 each from TCU's to 3.5", a 5 Friend, and an old 5/new 6 Camalot. Long runners. Headlamp & prussiks if disregarding rap beta.
|By Chris Perkins|
From: Avon, Colorado
Apr 22, 2006
Felt the 2nd pitch was solid 5.10. Great pitch. No one was willing to do the third pitch. We need some character building for sure. Never had the need for a #5 on 2nd pitch, but would on 3rd. (next time)
|By Josh Gross|
Mar 24, 2008
Recommend rapping "Aging Salesman" 5.11+ new half inch bolts/chain. Two 60 meter ropes needed.
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
Apr 2, 2008
WIthout question the third pitch of this thing is harder than Vision Quest. Ten-a is a complete sandbag.
Oct 14, 2009
I would consider the 3rd pitch significantly the easiest of all pitches. To the first bolt it is easy stemming, past this and the second there are enough ledges and holds to consider this sport climbing or at worst a fun offwidth. Only the exit chimney was a bit burly as I did not fit in and had to climb this as ow, and therefore I would rate a 5.9. Kristina, who fit in, would not accept any rating higher than 5.8. A #6 camalot was useful to homogenize the pro after the 2nd bolt; I had no use for the #5.
|By Princess Mia|
Sep 7, 2011
P1 is 5.9, but I leaving the sandy ledge half way up and climbing past the bolt has some pucker factor especially if one is short, as a few sandy moves are required before clipping the bolt, and the last available pro is below the ledge.
P2 is pretty straight forward 5.10a. Easy jamming and a few fun little moves.
P3 is absolutely wonderful. The initial stemming/chimney/squeeze is easy and protects well with a #4.5. Then there are two bolts before the final squeeze/OW (crux). A #5 protects nicely before slithering in it, but then one must climb a ways before a #6 will fit. A #4 Big Bro could be useful for that section. The crux is probably only 3 feet or so but pretty strenuous depending on how big you are. I could get into it and sort of slither up half an inch at a time using my "bosom" as a jamming devise (lol) combined with a chicken wing. My husband had to stay outside and use typical OW technique.
After spending 3 weekends at Vedauvoo, this climb didn't seem to bad.
Overall - super fun!!!