Wild Country Krab issue?
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Not my Facebook post but it looks like a really potential issue regardless of the circumstances. facebook.com/photo.php?fbid… |
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don't cross load your shit |
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facebook wrote:This particular biner was a wild country synergy keylock.Well its definitely NOT a keylock, and not a current 'biner offered by WC wildcountry.co.uk/products/… Have to be damn sharp or weighted well to have cut that easily it seems. |
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Is that a Beal rope? If so, do you remember the model? It looks like mine that the core showed through after I pulled it through the anchors (without that much friction). Did not go back up to investigate what caused it. |
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from the facebook page: |
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generationfourth wrote: This particular biner was a wild country synergy keylock.False |
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dropped? while rappelling? sounds like another midwesterner in over their head looking for someone else to blame. |
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From his description, it seems surprising a person could pull hard enough to shred a rope like that without noticing something was amiss. |
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I don't see how that moderate sheath damage would lead to a 100' fall. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:I don't see how that moderate sheath damage would lead to a 100' fall.Just what I thought. That rope wasn't anywhere close to failing, he should retire it yes, but it isn't unsafe. So the dude cross loaded the biner and damaged the sheath of his rope. This is NOT a new issue. Everyone I've climbed with has known for many years that a cross loaded biner can cut a rope sheath. It sounds like someone who doesn't know how to properly use his gear, I wouldn't think twice about using this "defective" biner. |
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This is the problem with the locker. Yes, crossloading can increase the chance of gear failure, but there is a very sharp and exposed part of the locker that can run against the rope. If this occurs with most biners, then it would be 100% belayer error, but I don't think I've seen this on other lockers. |
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The rope couldn't hold the weight of the dude's belly in the background. |
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About 90% of carabiners--locking and non-locking--have sharp spots around the gate hinges that will hack a rope in a second. |
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I checked a few screw lockers from my gear bin. Some of them are sharper there than others and one C.A.M.P. biner was quite sharp. I don't think this is a Wild Country specific thing. Anyone who is truly worried about this could easily switch to keylock or autolockers where that area is covered. I personally prefer autolock for my rappel device anyway but if I used screw lock I don't think I would be too worried because I'm always vigilant against cross loading. I think this is operator error. |
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Malcolm beat me to it. I completely agree. |
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kennoyce wrote: Just what I thought. That rope wasn't anywhere close to failing, he should retire it yes, but it isn't unsafe. So the dude cross loaded the biner and damaged the sheath of his rope. This is NOT a new issue. Everyone I've climbed with has known for many years that a cross loaded biner can cut a rope sheath. It sounds like someone who doesn't know how to properly use his gear, I wouldn't think twice about using this "defective" biner.In your opinion the rope isn't unsafe but you still recommend retiring it? Sounds like you're saying completely opposite things. The rope damage shown in the picture absolutely makes the rope unsafe for climbing use. Was I misunderstanding your point? |
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Mark Lewis wrote: In your opinion the rope isn't unsafe but you still recommend retiring it? Sounds like you're saying completely opposite things. The rope damage shown in the picture absolutely makes the rope unsafe for climbing use. Was I misunderstanding your point?The rope wouldn't have killed him or snapped under normal use in a rappel. There is no way I would lead on that rope though, which is why you should retire it. If you were high on a route and your rope looked like that you would use it the whole way down (with a puckered butt no doubt...) |
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Malcolm Daly wrote:About 90% of carabiners--locking and non-locking--have sharp spots around the gate hinges that will hack a rope in a second. Maybe manufactures should start warning people about the dangers of cross-loading carabiners. Oh. Wait. They already do. And they have been doing that since the first person bent some aluminum into and oval and attached a gate. Sorry about your rope. MalSeems like they should also start rounding those edges to minimize the risk. Any mechanical reason that couldn't be done? |
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Wow, you all are more ballsy than me! I would never rap (much less lead) on a rope with that type of sheath damage; not safe. If I were high on a route and noticed that massive sheath damage I wouldn't keep climbing on it hoping it would hold. I would probably figure out a way to bypass the damaged section (tie off the damaged section temporarily), or cut the damaged section out and bail off the route on a series of shorter raps or some such thing. |
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Most lockers are like that. My Petzl attache has the same "sharp" features on the hinge of the gate like shown in the pictures. This is on the bottom of the gate at the pivot point, not at the top which is a keylock. |
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Dude!!! This is America! Its called a biner! |