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The Mission Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Wild Child 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,787
Submitted By: Thor Kieser on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Taking a TR lap on the first pitch.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts on a platform about fifty feet to the left of the huge pegmatite dike that splits Mission Wall vertically. The first pitch is well protected 5.9+, and the crux is pulling over a right-facing corner roof about halfway up. It has 8 or 9 bolts plus anchors. The moves are fun, and it's the safest bolting on Mission Wall so far.

Pitch two is incomplete but should be done within a few weeks. The second pitch is classic Clear Creek steep 11c jug hauling. Right now it ends on the grassy ledge where the two climbs to the left of Wild Child also end. There are no anchors on Wild Child's second pitch, so you either have to traverse left to top of other routes or lower off top bolt of this route.

I intend Wild Child to be three to four pitches in length when it's finished....

From Jan 1, 2005: Wild Child is now four pitches in length. From the top of pitch two, climb out the overhanging crack-chimney (10a dirty), at the third bolt undercling left onto the slab (do not climb straight up, it's more chossy). Cruise easy rock for a while, then friction past two bolts to reach Surette Ledge and a chain anchor. Actually it is more comfortable to belay off bolts found at the back of the ledge, the anchor I placed is for the descent. Pitch three is 10b.

Walk 15 feet right on Surette Ledge to a two-bolt belay station. Pitch four is high quality and exposed 10d/11a. Start with a delicate undercling/layback past three bolts through a steep, quartzite headwall to a crack, note the old ring angle piton in the crack (do not clip this). A long reach right allows you to clip the next bolt. Hand traverse right and fire through steep face (crux). Continue up 5.9 to a two-bolt anchor at the top of Mission Wall.

You can walk off to the South or rap the route.

Wild Child and most climbs on the Mission Wall are more adventurous than your standard Clear Creek clip-ups. There are still loose sections, lichen, fractured rock, and broken ledges. Surette Ledge is full of talus, so be very careful. If you rap the route, you may encounter rope hang-ups on pitch three. If you are inexperienced with multi-pitch or alpine-like rock, this route is probably not for you. If you are a solid 5.11 leader who likes adventure, then Wild Child is a fun outing.

Eds. this was combined from 2 entries into 1 for ease of use.


Protection 

Pitch 1, 5.9+, (well protected) has eight bolts in 90 feet and anchors. Second pitch is not completed at this time but goes through a cool roof at 11c. About six bolts have been placed....

Now, the rest of the route has been bolted.



Photos of Wild Child Slideshow Add Photo
1st crux on 4th pitch.
1st crux on 4th pitch.
Onto easier ground after exiting the crux on the second pitch.
Onto easier ground after exiting the crux on the s...
Looking down the filthy slabs of pitch 3 (the important stuff is plenty clean).
Looking down the filthy slabs of pitch 3 (the impo...
Steep moves starting the 3rd pitch.
Steep moves starting the 3rd pitch.
Starting the technical face moves at the top of pitch 3.
Starting the technical face moves at the top of pi...
Fourth pitch after the traverse moves.
Fourth pitch after the traverse moves.
Comments on Wild Child Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 11, 2013
By piz
Sep 25, 2002

Hey man, all the bolting on this wall is totally safe to lead. All bolts are placed at extremely large holds and all difficult sections have appropriate bolt placements. Remember, when you are ROCK CLIMBING (that is on rock) you are not in a gym, therefore there will not be bolts every two feet to clip. Lead climbing is an art and should be practiced on more tame ground. Accidents happen because people make poor decisions, not because bolt locations. If you are on a 5.11 route and can't climb 5.8 without much thought then maybe you should practice more before trying harder routes. I have done your first pitch and thought to myself, why was this route opened and not cleaned it is more unsafe then any other the others for the belay and the leader. I could go on all day but I won't, lets just say you do it your way and I'll do it mine.

piz : )

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 2, 2002

As of october '02, this route is dirty and loose. The second pitch especially. Be careful up there. Having said that, the first pitch is a nice warm-up with a cool crux move half way up. 5.9+ with a bolt right there in your face. The rest of the pitch is easier 5.7-5.8 on big holds. It is run out for clear creek standards. There are good stances and hands for each clip save the first one. Certainly not a beginner lead. The second pitch goes through a roof with way cool position and well bolted. I call it 5.11a/b. From there you get onto a big ledge and then have to pull over another bulge on thin moves, again bolts everywhere you need them. I pulled on the draws through this section after I pulled off a large block and got spooked but it looks like mid to hard 5.11. The rest is much easier. This pitch needs a lot of cleaning work. Again becareful. The belay is protected from falling stuff by the big roof. This will be a very fun route once cleaned up and made a little safer for all.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 7, 2002

I am aware that the route needs cleaning and will get to it in the spring.

The second pitch is now complet but not cleaned.

Please be very careful if you climb the 2nd pitch.It'll get better in the spring I promise - Thor

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2003

As of Spring '03, route still dirty and loose....

Spaces between the bolts wouldn't seem run out if it were solid rock. Thor, I have some brushes and crow bar you could borrow !?

On the top of the 1st pitch, at the 3 bolt anchor, the two lowering rings should be on the bottom two bolts, not the side two bolts.

By Thor Kieser
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We did some cleaning on Wild Child and its better now. THe second pitch is very cool and worth doing. at 5.11a. Hopefully this summer we will get to the third pitch.

By Thor Kieser
Aug 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The second pitch is now clean. This is an awesome and rerally fun pitch with two cruxes. The first crux is a 5.10 c roof with a heel hook and small dyno to a jug on the lip and a second dyno to a crack over the lip. The second crux is 11a (hint: reach left twice).

By T. Kieser
May 15, 2006

I do not know how the bomb rating got in here. The fourth pitch is actually really cool 5.10d/11a. The third pitch is not super nice but the route is worth doing.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2006

Thor, if you log in using your old id ("Thor Kieser", not "T. Kieser"), you can edit the route and change the Bomb rating to whatever you think it really should be.

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun and challenging route. 1st, 2nd and 4th pitches are well worth doing. 3rd pitch unfortunately is dirty, mossy and loose in sections. Particularly the 3rd pitch v-slot roof crux is in bad shape...tread lightly and look carefully for the few good sections of rock to trust...

Dan Godshall

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jul 15, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The first pitch has six bolts, not eight or nine.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Maybe edit both of these into one route? It's cleaning up just fine. Very fun route...

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Certainly a fun route. Not too dirty. The final pitch is excellent!

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

No dynos are necessary at the second roof crux on the second pitch. I am 5'8" tall and did the moves statically at 11a/10d.

By 303scott
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A swallow made a nest (with eggs) on one of the jugs for the 9+ roof on the first pitch. With the egg handicap, it likely goes at easy 10.

By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jun 10, 2012

The route has cleaned up nicely. The only disturbingly loose rocks were a couple of large blocks in the roof starting the 3rd pitch.

By g.miller
Feb 11, 2013

I rope soloed this on Saturday, great route with a nice adventure feel to it despite being bolted very well! The route seemed pretty clean of anything dangerously loose or dirty. Combine p. 1 and 3 for a full value. I'd call it 10+ Thanks for the hard work!