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Out of the rattly fingers, into the stacks, totall...
Wild Cat is a great finger-stacking testpiece on the west end of the Cat Wall (closer to Nine Lives than Johnny Cat). Climb through a reachy start and clip a bolt that protects a face climbing move up to a pillar. Rest here and then bust it up the not-quite-straight-in off-fingers crack to a final crux: trying to clip the anchors.
A bunch of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots & a quickdraw.
BETA PHOTO: entry moves.
photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: at the protection bolt. good spot for a #3 a...
BETA PHOTO: is that a knee bar?
photo by Casey Bernal
BETA PHOTO: me actually making a few moves through the crux be...
few years later, still a hard route!
From: Concord, MA
Sep 30, 2007
I thought the first 15' feet of rattly fingers off the pillar were way effin hard . once the crack went splitter, i felt it eased up. Felt a bit harder than Slice'n Dice
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 1, 2007
There used to be a block you could stand on to help get started with the rattly fingers bit. It got trundled off and made it a bit more difficult now.
|By chris Kalous|
Oct 31, 2007
Yeah, I have a video of Mike Brumbaugh sending the pillar last year! The next-block down could go, too. There are definitely .12- routes that are easier than this thing. It is a little heady to place gear and pull rope above the pillar/ledge, as well! Tremendous position, though.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 5, 2009
opening moves are fun and sporty. decent 0.4 camalot in a horizontal before the roof.
i found good finger locks for the first 10 feet off the ledge, then the business starts. yikes. i got spanked. painfully insecure stacked fingers and crappy feet get you to a jug/lieback then eventually good hand jam rest. i found a 1.5 friend protects the crux nicely. the last part is kind of an enduro test, insecure jams, but at least you have good feet.
Oct 5, 2009
yeah, only one hand can really crank due to the skewed angle of the crack. the other hand is doing that obtuse finger stacking crap, which is pretty desperate, especially considering the size. i couldn't get my fingers onto my thumb to stack at all, just pure finger twisting. kind of spooky right above a ledge too.
|By eric whewell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2009
This route felt harder to me than Slice N' Dice at Way Rambo and definitely harder than Johnny Cat. Pretty burly at .11+!
|By Ben Griffin|
From: Durango, CO
Jan 29, 2011
This is one of the most beautiful splitters you can find at the cat wall. I could see the splitter from the top of the trail at the cat wall from the first parking lot. This climb is freakin hard!! Right off the pillar its rattly fingers, but they are in a corner, so you have feet. Then the crux is pulling really tight ring locks with no feat. Then climb a splitter crack that is very off set to the chains. There is a good rest half way up, but after the rest the climbing does get easier. I was really excited about this route, but slim thinks it is dumb.
Jan 30, 2011
what? kind of hard to compare 40 feet of semi sport climbing and about 30 feet of offset splitter to something like 9 lives, or bad cat, or johnny cat, or cat burglar, or deseret moon, or ......