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Wild America 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Wright, Hanson, Lane, 1995
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 14, 2001
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Description 

As you migrate left around the South face of the Dungeon area, and prior to entering the maze of the dungeon proper, you come to a system of very steep roofs above a very cobbled bed rock. Wild America ascends the cobbled bed rock, traverses left and then jogs immediately back right to get establihed above a narrow roof. The meat comes in chasing a black streak via thin, sharp edges with some big reaches, on a dead vertical wall. Cool moves on sharp rock kick up a CWC "classic". We tried many times to link through the roof without the traverse left, but this never worked despite putting the combined 425 of muscle of the Ubermeisters, Tom and Mike, on the task. Cool line up an obvious feature.


Protection 

Six or eight draws and a rope.



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By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 23, 2002
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Hasn't anyone redpointed the direct start yet? Richard, I told you shortly before my climbing exile was imposed that this route requires a figure 4 from the base of the nose under the roof to get established. Right fingers into pocket, left foot in scoop, stand up and pinch the potato chip flake. That is the only direct ascent up without the contrived traverse. I came 4" short of the key pinch on my last, best attempt. But heading straight up is .12D minimum.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 24, 2002

Welcome back, Mike!!!! I have not tried this since way back when, and I don't know if Tom or you or anyone else got back to get it clean. In 1995, it was led all free, but with one or two hangs up high. While W.A. has a lot of cruxy moves, as you know, it's still pretty short and "only" 5.12. I'd be a bit surprised if someone didn't put it away a long time ago.