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 ADVANCED
Pulpit Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anatomically Incorrect T 
Garden Party TR 
Griff-Orama T 
Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out T 
Left Wing Communists T 
Old Pin Route T 
Peachtree Street T 
Praying Hands T 
Pulpit Rock Left T,S 
Right Side T 
Shroom Groove TR 
Tiptoe Through The Tulips TR 
Tunnel Vision T 
Vegetative Estate  TR 
Walk In The Park T 
Wight Wing Wadicals T 

Wight Wing Wadicals 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Jay Detweiler & Gerry Brown
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 5, 2012

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Description 

This is a good line with two options ~1/3 the way up that dramatically affect the difficulty level.

Start up and around to the left of Shroom Groove, Tiptoe Through The Tulips, etc. by maybe 100 feet. Start in an obvious crack (the same as Anatomically Incorrect) that goes up to a tree ~20 feet up. Continue up to a slanting ledge. Here, you have a choice. 1) Move left of the offwidth bulge onto nice knobs and edges (the same as Anatomically Incorrect). Go up perhaps 10 feet, then move right back to the crack above the bulge. 2) Take on the bulging offwidth directly, 8, with an arm bar and a reach to a good knob. You would likely want something wide for this bit, a #3.5 Camalot fits at the crux. Continue up to the top of this side of the rock.

Rappel ~90' from a sling with a link around a staub on the tree. In the future, this may get some rappel bolts.

Location 

This starts up and around to the left of Shroom Groove, Tiptoe Through The Tulips, etc. by maybe 100 feet at a crack with a tree ~20 feet up.

Protection 

For the left variation, a rack to a #3 Camalot would work. For the right variation, a rack to a #5 Camalot would be ideal.


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The upper bit of WWW.
The upper bit of WWW.

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