Wight Wing Wadicals
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This is a good line with two options ~1/3 the way up that dramatically affect the difficulty level.
Start up and around to the left of Shroom Groove
, Tiptoe Through The Tulips
, etc. by maybe 100 feet. Start in an obvious crack (the same as Anatomically Incorrect
) that goes up to a tree ~20 feet up. Continue up to a slanting ledge. Here, you have a choice. 1) Move left of the offwidth bulge onto nice knobs and edges (the same as Anatomically Incorrect
). Go up perhaps 10 feet, then move right back to the crack above the bulge. 2) Take on the bulging offwidth directly, 8, with an arm bar and a reach to a good knob. You would likely want something wide for this bit, a #3.5 Camalot fits at the crux. Continue up to the top of this side of the rock.
Rappel ~90' from a sling with a link around a staub on the tree. In the future, this may get some rappel bolts.
For the left variation, a rack to a #3 Camalot would work. For the right variation, a rack to a #5 Camalot would be ideal.