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I started up this with the intention of leading it, but the broken flake at the bottom and no visibility of what pro would follow made me back off. On toprope, I found that two decent pieces can be placed once the flake turns more or less vertical. An s rating is still appropriate since a fall before these placements could ground you on the slab below and after the two cams, you must make the crux moves with no further pro.
Start at the right side of the cliff and head up to the small, short, R-facing dihedral. You can place a couple pieces before heading left onto the slab.
Undercling the flake and make a couple of moves left. At this point, the fracture in the flake ends and a small offset (0.25/0.5 Friend) will sit well in a pod. A few feet higher, another small cam around the 0.3-0.5 range fits.
After this gear, make the crux moves on thin holds up the slab. The route is basically over after the slab. Walkoff to the R or L is possible.
Micro cams, small Aliens, or the like up to #1 Friend.
|By James Beissel|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
Dirty, crumbling rock encrusted in lichen. Unless you are looking for choss, I suggest skipping this one.