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Reservoir Wall
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Wigglin' Worm 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Oct 28, 2001
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Wigglin Worm start
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An enduro fest! This route is 140' long so bring two ropes. This route is located about 20 yards to the right of Pente. It tackles a funky wide start (maybe a #5 camalot if you haul it up there but you can get aliens behind the flake a little ways off the ground) followed by a section of thin hands, to perfect hands over a roof, to wide hands for a long ways up the right facing dihedral. A funky wigglin' section caps the route (big gear not necessary).


Protection 

Lots of hand sized pieces ranging from #2 Friend through #3 Camalot. An Alien or two may be helpful for psychological pro behind the loose flake about 10' off the ground.



Photos of Wigglin' Worm Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb approaching the top of the long and tiring "Wigglin' Worm (5.11)" at the Resevoir Wall. Photo by Peter Spindloe or Jim Stanley (?) 2002.
Tony Bubb approaching the top of the long and tiri...
Peter Spindloe a long way up Wigglin' Worm, but with a long way to go. Joseffa Meir Belays. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2002.
BETA PHOTO: Peter Spindloe a long way up Wigglin' Worm, but wi...
Comments on Wigglin' Worm Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 30, 2001

This route is super cool. Keep looking into the crack on the way up and you will see some amazing crystal formations. Gorgeous.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2002
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Survey says.... This route is 125' long.
The hardest single move for me was the OW at the bottom, which was awkward to get up. The chockstones at the back dumped sand when I tried to use them.

After placing a "psychological" piece (psycho-illogical, maybe) behind the flake, where the height was becomeing questionably dangerous, the moves back off to 5.9+ until good gear can be had. Call this route 5.11 (solid, sustained) and 5.9+ R.

By Rob Dillon
Oct 1, 2003

The widening splitter through the bulge just left of the route at mid-height is rad, and doesn't get wide like the top of WW. A cool step across accesses good hands. Natham Martin put this one up, or so I heard. I don't think this makes the route any harder, but you won't need anything bigger than a 3.5F for it either...

I recall this having a plaque as of '04 or so?

By beerdrinker
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Pulling the roof is not as tough as it looks. this route keeps coming at you. excellent variety for a splitter crack. May seem not as classic with Pente and Slot Machine so close by, but definitely worthy.

By Rob T
Sep 11, 2006

70 m barely gets you down w/ stretch.

By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Golden, CO
Sep 18, 2006

This is a great route. I personally thought the opening moves were really easy - no wide technique necessary - but I did see people in our party making this section look really hard. You can get a good sideways undercling fingerlock (I won't tell you where, but you'll figure it out) - even for big fingered people - if you pull out on it as you're stepping up, your fingers lock tight, and you can high step onto the good feet and get finger locks in the back on the left............. I thought the top was strenuous, I layed back most of the wide part with the good edge, as my hands were too small for fists and I wasn't into stacking..

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mar 23, 2009

Fantastic route! Great for smaller mits. Our 70 m did not reach the ground - bring double ropes.

By greg t
Mar 18, 2012

climbed this in fall '11, great route. Got on it again ( march '12 ) and the blocks 10ft off the ground are SUPER loose. Be careful.

By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

No more blocks and/or flake right off the ground in the wide section. Still nice and dirty though. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect this section.

This route is exactly 35m long. Our 70m made it back to the ground, but the knot at the end of the rope was against the belay device. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if using a 70m!

Fun, interesting, and diverse route. Not an easy 5.11, as Tony B stated earlier, but certainly not runout.