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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The T 
Backflip T 
Bellyflop T,S 
Between The Sheets T 
Bookmark OW T 
Cave Route T 
Coleman's Complex T 
Crack of No Return T 
Dead in Bed T 
East Side T 
Fall Out T 
Fantasy Ridge T 
Goose, The T,S 
Inside Straight T 
Joy and Tribulation T 
Klingon (with direct start) T 
Manhole Cover T 
Marginal Line T 
Original Fantasy Ridge T 
Penis Chimney T 
Plan A T 
Rhythm Method T 
Romulan Territory T 
Screamin' Eagles S 
Seams Like A Dream T 
Sojourn T 
Son of a Pitch T 
Star Trek T 
Time Machine T 
Twiggy's Crack T 
Virgin Spring T 
Wigglin' Fingies T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wigglin' Fingies 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 818
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on May 30, 2003

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Chris Weidner on a redpoint attempt of Wigglin' Fi...

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Description 

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "Cave Route" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (i.e.: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, 1 each cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.


Photos of Wigglin' Fingies Slideshow Add Photo
Lynn just before flashing the crux on the 2nd onsi...
Lynn just before flashing the crux on the 2nd onsi...

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By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 13, 2003
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Topher Donahue made the first onsight ascent of this route in July of 2002, confirming the grade and quality.
By Dale Remsberg
Mar 23, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Climbed Wigglin today!!! what a rad route! No doubt the slab is hard but don't under estimate the opening crack moves or they may sting you in the tail. The fixed nut is still in place and is way bomber.

cheers,

dale