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Wiessner Crack 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, 40 feet
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger and Hassler Whitney, 1934
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...

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Description 

This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.

This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it.

Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.


Protection 

Standard traprock rack. Wires, some cams.



Photos of Wiessner Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down jacket im wearing. Great gear and thoughful moves.

Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down j...

Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope length!

Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope l...

Just below the crux

Just below the crux


Comments on Wiessner Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.8

Yes, climb the hole. It's rather spelunk-ish.

By Eric G.
From: Albany NY
Jul 8, 2012

crux pro is outstanding.