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Monument Canyon
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Wide Load aka Route 3 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [A. Petefish, D. Huntley]
Page Views: 1,591
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Mar 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: The Monolith Spire AKA: The Catcher's Mitt.
Severa...

Description 

At the Side Areas, area 2, is this nice route. Just left of the thin crack with a fixed pin, start up the finger crack corner. The crack keeps getting larger in size from thin hands to offwidth. The knee jam seems to work alright here, although painful. Thrutch your way up the wide crack, then continue through a squeeze chimney up to a ledge with a fixed anchor.

Submitted subsequently by Tony B: To find this route, pass the popular Lower wall on the Monument Trail with the route "Dihedral #1" and go to the next significant prow on the same side of the canyon. [This] huge prow has a large protruding buttress with a clean dihedral high on the wall (part of the aid route "Binge"), making it easy to identify. On the left side of this prow there is a left-facing dihedral that pops up above a small roof to a slot. The bottom of the climb is fun and mostly easy-going. There is a crux at [the] bulge/roof, [and] then some runout easy climbing to the anchors. A few cams would go in up high if you take a few larger ones that high on the route. All in all, it was fun, but the sandy top of the route detracts from the lower half. Still fun, still worth doing....

Protection 

Standard rack with 2, #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot. A 50m rope comes about 6 foot short of the ground, but you may downclimb the last bit.

Addendum: The anchor which needed replacing has been replaced. Thanks!


Photos of Wide Load aka Route 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa Meir on lead about 1/2 way up 'Wide Load (10a)' a nice pitch that is not particularly wide until up top. Photo 2005 by Tony Bubb.
Joseffa Meir on lead about 1/2 way up 'Wide Load (...
BETA PHOTO
The view from the Base of Wide Load is rather impressive. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
The view from the Base of Wide Load is rather impr...
Phil at the anchors. <br />Medium view of the entire route.
BETA PHOTO: Phil at the anchors.
Medium view of the entire rou...

Comments on Wide Load aka Route 3 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

I looked this up in Desert Rock III and it gets a 10a rating for the small bulge after the OW section. Forgot the name though...Doh.
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 3, 2007

The name of this route is Route #3, per Bjornstad's guide. Wide Load is a more exciting name in my opinion. A few notes on this climb. First, the anchors on this route could use replacing, currently there is a old 1/4 inch spinner and an angle that is not fully driven. Secondly, watch your rope when you pull it on this one, there is a section of rope stuck in the back of the crack where someone had to cut it after getting it stuck. Lastly, there are two fixed cams on this route, one about 15 feet up, and one in the roof.
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Nov 3, 2009

The anchor has been replaced. If I remember right, there are 2 pins and a good bolt with chains up there now. Thanks to whoever replaced it!
By george wilkey
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 13, 2013

My son and I climbed this route the summer of 2012. I would definitely give the move past the bulge a 10a rating. The anchors were good, no more stuck cams on route. We both thought it was a route well worth doing.