Wide Load aka Route 3 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | [A. Petefish, D. Huntley] |
| Submitted By: | Ben Mottinger on Mar 29, 2001 |
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Description At the Side Areas, area 2, is this nice route. Just left of the thin crack with a fixed pin, start up the finger crack corner. The crack keeps getting larger in size from thin hands to offwidth. The knee jam seems to work alright here, although painful. Thrutch your way up the wide crack, then continue through a squeeze chimney up to a ledge with a fixed anchor.
Submitted subsequently by Tony B: To find this route, pass the popular Lower wall on the Monument Trail with the route "Dihedral #1" and go to the next significant prow on the same side of the canyon. [This] huge prow has a large protruding buttress with a clean dihedral high on the wall (part of the aid route "Binge"), making it easy to identify. On the left side of this prow there is a left-facing dihedral that pops up above a small roof to a slot. The bottom of the climb is fun and mostly easy-going. There is a crux at [the] bulge/roof, [and] then some runout easy climbing to the anchors. A few cams would go in up high if you take a few larger ones that high on the route. All in all, it was fun, but the sandy top of the route detracts from the lower half. Still fun, still worth doing....
Protection Standard rack with 2, #3 Camalots and a #4 Camalot. A 50m rope comes about 6ft short of the ground, but you may downclimb the last bit.
Addendum: The anchor which needed replacing has been replaced. Thanks!
Joseffa Meir on lead about 1/2 way up 'Wide Load (...
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The view from the Base of Wide Load is rather impr...
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BETA PHOTO: The Monolith Spire AKA: The Catcher's Mitt.
Severa...
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BETA PHOTO: Phil at the anchors.
Medium view of the entire rou...
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| Comments on Wide Load aka Route 3 |
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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001
| I looked this up in Desert Rock III and it gets a 10a rating for the small bulge after the OW section. Forgot the name though...Doh. |
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 3, 2007
| The name of this route is Route #3, per Bjornstad's guide. Wide Load is a more exciting name in my opinion. A few notes on this climb. First, the anchors on this route could use replacing, currently there is a old 1/4 inch spinner and an angle that is not fully driven. Secondly, watch your rope when you pull it on this one, there is a section of rope stuck in the back of the crack where someone had to cut it after getting it stuck. Lastly, there are two fixed cams on this route, one about 15 feet up, and one in the roof. |
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Nov 3, 2009
| The anchor has been replaced. If I remember right, there are 2 pins and a good bolt with chains up there now. Thanks to whoever replaced it! |
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