Wide Gauge  5.7 C1

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Type:  Trad, Aid FA:  Bernard Gillett and Chris Hill, 1993 Submitted By:  paco on Mar 25, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

First climbed by [Estes Park] ledgends Bernard and Crusty in '93. Wide Gauge is not well known but holds some great aid and is, in fact, included on the Lumpy-aid tick list. so check it out!

The crux of this climb may be the approach. Hike west past the front of the Bookmark until looking at its rarely climbed west face. From here devise a way to access Wide Gauge. Look for No Bozos, an ugly [crystalline], vertical crack and carry your overloaded pack through some classic 4th class to its base.

From here, aid or free climb No Bozo's nasty crack until the beautiful thin crack to the left is too much to ignore. Make a long reach, or short pendulum to this crack which is the start of Wide Gauge. Depending on how low you start in the thin crack, its thin aid for a ways (C2, C2+, RPs, beaks and cam hooks), yet it is also easy to stay with No Bozos until Wide Gauge cuts out left on a long leaning crack (C1 or 5.10). Either way [you'll] end up taking the nice leaning crack (C1+) for a nice diagonal ride to a belay in a chimney. From here, climb up the loose chimney to a sub-summit of the Bookend. Continue to the true summit with lots of 4th and 5th class or take the handy, but hidden, rap located on the ridge above.

Protection 

Bring the usual clean aid rack.