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Turkey Perch
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Bloody Englishman 
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Easy Chimney 
Gobble Up 
Gobbler's Cobbler, The 
Honky Jam Ass Crack 
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) 
Left Handed Jew 
Liquid Acrobat 
Mark of Zorro 
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) 
Moderate 1 
Ragger Bagger 
Reefer Madness 
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width 
Short and Sweet 
Stiff Little Fingers 
Turkey Sandwich 
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth 
Wide Chimney 

Wide Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on Aug 24, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: You can see it here, the chimney on the left side ...


This route starts as a semi-wide crack at the bottom which can be bypassed on the ledges to your right where you then would work back left after manteling into the wide ledge where the crack is near hands width. Continue straight up from that point until you get into the bottom of the chimmney (I found that the crack on the left wall presumably the Gobbler's Cobbler was useful at times). From here, head mostly straight up until you can get some gear in the cracks above near the bush (you could cheat yourself from here and just walk up and pass 1 chock stone, but why?). I kept chimneying until I had to pass under the last large chockstone into the big room above. I think it would be cool to stay on the outside of the last large chockstone.


This is in the alcove to the right of Steppenwolf, left crack/chimney. (Not Gobbler's Cobbler or Gator's Skin as I have also heard it called. It's just right of that route.)


We didn't really use anything bigger than a #3-3.5. Some small gear was used like a red sliding nut, and black Alien.

Photos of Wide Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
The goods!
The goods!
The upper section zoomed in from below.
BETA PHOTO: The upper section zoomed in from below.
The fun and unique part is just ahead.
The fun and unique part is just ahead.
Jeff Young half way up.
Jeff Young half way up.
Looking up at the chimney section.
Looking up at the chimney section.
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