Wide Boy 5.10a
| 685 page views
Good page?   |
Wide Boy 5.10a on Left, Deface Crack 5.10a on Righ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting
|
Description A fun, mostly hand-size crack with a section of offwidth- to fist-sized. The start is a little tricky, particularly if you are shorter. The short offwidth section is a bit intimidating, but either liebacking or a bit of groveling followed by fist jams will see it through.
This crack gets sun fairly early, so it is a good one to start with on a brisk morning.
Location This right-facing, corner crack is located in the same alcove as Deface Crack and Red Warrior. There is a v-shaped chain anchor on the face just to the right of the crack.
Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.
Protection A #4 Camalot C4 fits the offwidth section, and #2.5 and #3 Friends for the rest (and I used one #2 friend as an oppositional piece at the start).
A three-bolt anchor at the top with a chain and a quicklink, although although only two of the bolts are connected by the chain.
By Tanner Wise
Sep 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| I TRed this and it was pretty enjoyable. the first move is a reach to a good hold. After that you can hand jam with the left hand and high step to a good ledge. then you stand up while holding onto a good hold and begin the lieback/offwith. I liebacked it up to the hand sized part. The hand jams are awesome with some edges on the right for your foot. I'll definately have to lead this once I build my rack a little more. |
|
RSS Feed
15 more...
