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Unsorted Routes:

Wide and Ugly 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Michael Friedrichs and Dan Moe
Page Views: 602
Submitted By: kevin fox on Jun 4, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Mike at the start of Wide and Ugly.

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Description 

This is a right-trending, overhanging, roof crack. It goes from big hands to fists to wide! If you have ape arms, you can reach further in to get solid jams. The crux is pulling around corner.


Protection 

Bring from #2 Camalot at the start and everything to #5 Camalot.



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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Just climbed this route yesterday and I thought it was great! It starts out with nice easy hand jams and then quickly widens to strenuous fists and bigger. At the crux, I had my right arm so deep in the crack that my face was pressed up against bottom of the roof.

From the deep right jam, I somehow managed to work my right foot up and right until it was higher than the rest of my body and toe hooked a dihedral way out right. I was then able to get an ok fist jam with my left hand and slowly worked right until I could grab the same dihedral with my right hand and pull myself into it. Wild!

By slim
Administrator
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This one makes Horn's Mother feel like 5.9. Similar to Right Torpedo Tube, IMO. Way harder than it looks.

By Tom Kelley
Feb 9, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Looks like I'm in the minority here, but for Vedauwoo, I've always felt this climb is overrated. Unpleasant to be sure, but overated. On a positive note, the gear is always overhead.