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Wichita Wildlife Refuge
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Charon's Gardens 
Ice Box Crag 
Labyrinth, The 
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Mount Scott 
Narrows, The 
Parking Lot 
Treasure Cove 

Wichita Wildlife Refuge 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 11, 2006

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Objective hazards when driving through the Wichita...

Description 

Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.

No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.


Getting There 

15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.


Guidebook 

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wichita Wildlife Refuge:
Pride of the Jungle   V3     Boulder   Pear and Apple (Bouldering) : Jungle Boulders
Great Expectations   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
The Dihedral   5.6     Trad, TR, 60 feet   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Water Streak   5.7 X     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
Ker Plunk   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
High Anxiety   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Crazy Alice   5.8     Trad, 60 feet   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Mr. Clean   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Foolish Behavior   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Wild Planet   5.10a X     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Crab Eyes : West Face
Dr. Coolhead   5.10d X     Trad, TR, 60 feet   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Spaceballs   5.11a     Sport   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Layaway Plan   5.11a/b     Sport, 60 feet   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Slime of the Century   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Aerial Anticipation   5.11c     Sport, 60 feet   The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation
League of Doom   5.11c R     Trad, 2 pitches   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Ra   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Crab Eyes : East Face
Lost My Religion   5.12a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Rap Bolters from Hell   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Tied to the Whipping Post   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Browse More Classics in Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Featured Route For Wichita Wildlife Refuge
Shows foolish behavior and appoximate location of bolts on route.

Foolish Behavior 5.9+ PG13  OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Upper Mount Scott
Climb the crack and exit left to bolt then climb the face....[more]   Browse More Classics in OK


Photos of Wichita Wildlife Refuge Slideshow Add Photo
A male collard lizard getting some morning sun

A male collard lizard getting some morning sun

Sun set over Crab Eyes (just left of center) as seen on the way back from Lost Dome after a long day of climbing.  Crab eyes is located in the Charon's Garden Wilderness Area.

Sun set over Crab Eyes (just left of center) as se...

Bridge has been replaced.

Bridge has been replaced.

Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows.  Matt onsites the sucker.

Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows. Matt o...

Charon Gardens, Wichita Mountains Wildlife refuge. Crab Eyes.

Charon Gardens, Wichita Mountains Wildlife refuge....

Definitely a year round destination! We had a great day of winter scrambling all over the Refuge one snowy day in March 2009.

Definitely a year round destination! We had a grea...

Charons Garden Wilderness Area <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray

Charons Garden Wilderness Area

Photo: Ryan Ray


Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray

Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area

...



Comments on Wichita Wildlife Refuge Add Comment
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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 13, 2007

That damn Sasquatch!

By Cels
Feb 24, 2009

Need a Climbing Partner from 3/1/09 to 3/7/09. Any takers?

By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2010

A few things you should keep in mind when planning a trip to the refuge:

It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)

Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.

There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.

There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.

Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide
This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers.
Enjoy, but be prepared.

By Tony Mayse
Mar 28, 2011

I've never had to bring 20'of webbing to set up anything. Cams, cordellete, maybe a couple slings if you're toproping stuff.

Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.

Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.

A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few..

By Jon Wood
May 16, 2011

Ha! Get 'em Tony. Thanks for a great book. Make the trip from Tulsa several times a year. It's like heaven down there. A lifetime of beautiful climbs.

By ddupree
Jul 24, 2011

My wife and I are new to the area and are wanting to learn to climb and rappell. we have NO experience but are eager to learn. Please let us know if there is anyone who can teach this in the area.
e-mail: labrat_7300@yahoo.com

By ravisurdhar
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 24, 2012

Accidentally forgot a blue Sterling rope in a black Metolius rope bag at near the anchor ledge of Upper Mount Scott on 9/23/2012. If anyone found it, please message me or email me at ravisurdhar AT yahoo DOT com. Thank you!!!

By Jonathan M
Feb 5, 2013

If anybody is having any trouble finding a certain area I might be able to help, I recently made a trail map with Google maps of some of the areas! shoot me a message and i'll see if I can dig them up for your. Great granite reminds me of my home Wyoming. The wildlife is awesome out there! Stay safe have fun.

By JeffL
Feb 22, 2013

Partners wanted between March 22nd and June 30th. I'll be living near OKC for a few months and would love to check this area out! Message me if interested!