|Wichita Wildlife Refuge
Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.
No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.
15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.
Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.
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359 Total Routes
['4 Stars',34],['3 Stars',108],['2 Stars',98],['1 Star',39],['Bomb',1]
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From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 13, 2007
That damn Sasquatch!
Feb 24, 2009
Need a Climbing Partner from 3/1/09 to 3/7/09. Any takers?
|By Steve DiMarino|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2010
A few things you should keep in mind when planning a trip to the refuge:
It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)
Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.
There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.
There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.
Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide
This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers.
Enjoy, but be prepared.
|By Tony Mayse|
Mar 28, 2011
I've never had to bring 20'of webbing to set up anything. Cams, cordellete, maybe a couple slings if you're toproping stuff.
Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.
Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.
A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few..
|By Jon Wood|
May 16, 2011
Ha! Get 'em Tony. Thanks for a great book. Make the trip from Tulsa several times a year. It's like heaven down there. A lifetime of beautiful climbs.
Jul 24, 2011
My wife and I are new to the area and are wanting to learn to climb and rappell. we have NO experience but are eager to learn. Please let us know if there is anyone who can teach this in the area.
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 24, 2012
Accidentally forgot a blue Sterling rope in a black Metolius rope bag at near the anchor ledge of Upper Mount Scott on 9/23/2012. If anyone found it, please message me or email me at ravisurdhar AT yahoo DOT com. Thank you!!!
|By Jonathan M|
Feb 5, 2013
If anybody is having any trouble finding a certain area I might be able to help, I recently made a trail map with Google maps of some of the areas! shoot me a message and i'll see if I can dig them up for your. Great granite reminds me of my home Wyoming. The wildlife is awesome out there! Stay safe have fun.
|By Matt Handley|
From: Fort Drum, New York
Jul 11, 2013
Looking for a partner who can lead with a decent trad rack on weekends between Aug 18th and Sep27th. I'll be at Ft. Sill for a class and would love to check out this area.
|By J. Pitts|
From: Garden City, Ks
Sep 5, 2013
Anybody out there want to climb with me September 26th through the 30th? Could be any of those days. I'm a experienced climber, and have been to the area before.