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Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed Arete" S 
Can Do T 
Cerebellum T 
Dirty Sanchez T 
Free Fall T,S 
Gecko, The T,S 
Goofer's Roof T,S 
Jack Straw T,S 
Kanarado Korner T,S 
Reflections T,S 
Scotch on the Rocks S 
Shannon's Bloody Leg 
Split Decision S 
Wichita Skyline T,S 
Zig Zag T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall) Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,500'
Page Views: 5,045
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012
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This is a south-facing, multi-pitch wall that is comprised of slab, face, and roofs. It may also be known as the Sunshine Wall. It gets excellent sun and is perfect for late Spring through Fall. The rock is high quality gneiss with some exfoliation on the slabby areas. It is only 1/4 mile away from the popular White Cliff and is soon to be a similar, popular destination. I have divided the wall into 3 areas, West, Central, and East walls. Unlike White Cliff, the West and Central walls are not recommended for dogs or kids as a slip here would result in a 60-100'+ fall down steep slabs and ledges. It seems that Wichita Wall also hosts a few more challenging lines as compared to White Cliff. The approach talus is large, stable, and lichen covered but, when wet, acts like ice.

The majority of the climbing here is MIXED, and a standard, single set of cams and nuts are needed for leading some of the routes here. Since this is a multi-pitch area and I have set up the 1st pitches with anchors, keep in mind that toproping is acceptable so long as you are not impeding the opportunity for other climbers to lead through to the upper pitches. Please be courteous and allow climbers to lead through so that they may access the routes above. This pertains to routes like Scotch on the Rocks and the 1st pitch of Free Fall.

A. Reflections, 10+, 2p, 180', gear.
above and right of A. Wichita Skyline, 10, 1p, bolts.
above and right of A. Unnamed Arete, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B? Above All, 9+, 2p?, solo or TR?
C. Jackstraw, 10+, 2p.
above & right of C. Kanarado Korner / Jam Crack Route, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Scotch On The Rocks, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
E? Paradise Lost, 6 R, 2p?
F. Free Fall, 10, 2p, bolts & gear.
G. Zig Zag / Gully, 6, 3p, gear.
H. The Gecko, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
above H. Can Do, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
I1? Cerebellum, 7 R, 1p, 120', gear.
I2? Variation, 9 R.
JH. [[111069565], 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Goofer's Roof aka Roof Right, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
LJ1. Center Roof, 8 R, 2p.
M. Dirty Sanchez, 6, 1p, 70', gear.

Click here for another topo and here for an archived guide.

Getting There 

From Exit 201 in Frisco, travel West on I-70 for approximately 0.2 miles (passing the old mine ruins on the right). As you merge into traffic, turn on your right turn signal and ride the shoulder. Soon you will come to a small, grassy clearing. Park here. You know you are in the correct location when you see the sign (soon to come) denoting the parking area marking the Wichita Wall and the Ding Dong Dome, attached to the old high-power line pole "stump". Currently there is an old shoe atop the "stump". Follow cairns up the large talus to a path through the aspens to the wall. The trail splits, heading left will take you to the West and Central walls, heading right will bring you to the East Wall. To gain the West and Central walls, the trail brings you to a 6 step iron ladder and fixed line. This leads you under the Central wall and continues on to the West wall, 60m left.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.3 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall):
Zig Zag   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   
Goofer's Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Gecko   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Free Fall   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Kanarado Korner   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)

Featured Route For Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
Rock Climbing Photo: About to get goofy on the roof.

Goofer's Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichi...
This is a mellow line that tackles an awkard roof, low on the East Wall. Starting a bit right of the bolted line of Split Decision, climb up right-trending crack/ledges to a looming, left-facing roof. The crack system through the root eats ear, so plug and chug through the roof and on to the easy slab above. Work a bit right and finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zig Zag start. A lot of variations available.
BETA PHOTO: Zig Zag start. A lot of variations available.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Roadside Sign looking up at the Wichita Wall.
The Roadside Sign looking up at the Wichita Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wichita Wall from the parking area.
BETA PHOTO: Wichita Wall from the parking area.
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper sign with Wichita Wall and Ding Dong Dom...
The upper sign with Wichita Wall and Ding Dong Dom...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pull in just before the 65mph sign.
BETA PHOTO: Pull in just before the 65mph sign.

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