|(2) Middle Earth
Really solid feet and wide ledges make for a route that's not terribly physically demanding, but what it lacks in pump-factor it makes up for with some interesting technical moves above bulges.
The first crux comes just above the third bolt as you move through a notch in a bulge. There are decent holds here if you fish for them.
The second crux is just below the anchors, where you're faced with an entirely blank looking bulge. You can go left here into the crack or for a more unique experience go straight up and mantle the bulge. I don't want to give it away, but it's not hard if you can find the right positioning.
Leftmost line of bolts in the Middle-earth area. In other words, the first line of bolts you'll encounter after taking the left fork in the trail. Look for a nice level rock at the base of a tree to belay from.
I've seen people place gear lower down here, but the climbing is easy enough that I didn't bother. I felt perfectly fine leading this on just the bolts.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
There is no need for gear on this route. The 1" placement the book notes is 3' below the next bolt on 5- rock.
Below the first bulge, you can either go right or left. I've found the right to be more direct and aesthetic. There is a run-out through easy terrain, past a tree, and up to a big ledge. Again, you can go left or right. I use the arete on the right. Climb easy blocks to the anchors.
Both of these choices seem to make the route easier and keep it 10a. But really, this route is just two moves, and I don't plan to do it again. Ever.
5 bolts + anchors. About 70 feet.