|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jon Stewart, Mark Deffenbaugh|
|Submitted By:||Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2010|
|Comments on Why Must I Cry||Add Comment|
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By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
There is no need for gear on this route. The 1" placement the book notes is 3' below the next bolt on 5- rock.
Below the first bulge, you can either go right or left. I've found the right to be more direct and aesthetic. There is a run-out through easy terrain, past a tree, and up to a big ledge. Again, you can go left or right. I use the arete on the right. Climb easy blocks to the anchors.
Both of these choices seem to make the route easier and keep it 10a. But really, this route is just two moves, and I don't plan to do it again. Ever.
5 bolts + anchors. About 70 feet.