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Why dont fully modular crampons exist?
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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Feb 6, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Why are there no crampons I can switch between hortizontal, vetical, and monopoint?

So I can horiztonal my galcier travel / steep snow slopes, then switch ot vertical or mono when I get to the technical stuff.

why?

why?


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 6, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Because cramps for steep ice generally are a thick, vertical rail type construction, which is heavy. On the other hand, crampons designed for glacier travel and snow-walking have a lighter, flatter construction. It'd kind of suck to have Grivel Rambos while walking down a trail with some ice on it, versus having a pair of BD Contacts.

Different tool for different uses.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Feb 6, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

gnome sayin'?


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By Jon Miller on the WS
Feb 6, 2013

Actually it is coming. Camp has a semi-rigid/rigid crampon that can convert from mono to dual to horizontal. It will be available winter 13.


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By shoo
From Boston, Massachusetts
Feb 6, 2013
Rock wars, Red River Gorge

Well, physics, that's why.

Detachable front points need to be robustly attached to the frame. There has to be a ZERO chance that it will fall off during use. Right now, the most practical way to achieve this is a bolt, nut, and spacer design. All replaceable front point crampons use this basic strategy, for good reason. However, that makes them disastrous to modify in the field, as it involves lots of small parts, compounded with freezing, etc. Hell, sometimes it's nearly impossible to swap these things in a warm workshop. So field modification is pretty much out.

Let's say for whatever reason that this is solved. We can magically and easily switch out points. Now we have another problem: loss of benefit of horizontals. One of the best parts about horizontal points lies in the simplicity of their design. They are a part of the frame, making them lighter and increasing the useful surface area on the bottom of the crampon and keep everything nice and light. With a swapable design, you lost some of both. More weight, less float, more complicated.

A replaceable horizontal front point also suffers a bit physics-wise. Vertical is convenient, because the material flexes in the axis in which the point is strongest. Horizontal front points, not so much. Attached front points get around this by simply being part of the frame. In order to make a replaceable horizontal front point, you would need to add a lot of vertical material to the bottom and/or use some seriously expensive materials. For the former, you've reduces some of that sweet flat underside surface area. For the latter, you make it prohibitively expensive.

Then consider the alternatives. Horizontals work pretty decently in most everything, and are light and easy. If you truly want the extremes, snowshoes for the snow and a pair of monos for the steep gives you the best of all worlds should you be willing to deal with the weight. Having one pair of horizontals for some vonditions, and a par of verticals for others isn't terribly expensive. Things like the petzl sarken are basically hybrid horizontal/vertical. In other words, you don't gain much against what's out there.

And yes, CAMP is coming out with something that does half of what you ask: climbs2high.blogspot.com/2013/01/more-cool-or-shit.html. I doubt anyone will really benefit much.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 6, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

Jon Miller on the WS wrote:
Actually it is coming. Camp has a semi-rigid/rigid crampon that can convert from mono to dual to horizontal. It will be available winter 13.



yolu forgot that its also going to convert from semi to full step in as well, dang things a beast


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 6, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

..and when they do come out, from whoever makes them with all the functionality desired, expect them to run around $450 bucks or more...


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