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Why Do Some Climbers HATE Bouldering?



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By Alex Quitiquit
From Salt Lake City
Jun 8, 2012
Pulling the surprisingly easy roof up top.

To be honest, I think bouldering is more dangerous. I have had more friends get injured bouldering than roped climbing. People that are more afraid of tying in don't understand that it is essentially the same thing as bouldering but a few more feet off the ground with the constant protection of a rope so your ankles aren't going to shatter when you fall.

I also prefer roped climbing because the objective makes much more sense to me. Bouldering is good to gain power and overall strength, but it has always seemed like a contrived variation to the sport. But I do respect the minimalism of just a pad and the rock.

Oh and where I boulder the problems are sandbagged and hard. But overall it's still climbing, rope or not, gear or bolts.


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By bearbreeder
Jun 8, 2012

because many of them cant do it .. and think that 5.7 "trad" climb makes em sooo hardcore ...

other than common sense and being safe with a positive attitude ... the first thing i look for in partners is climbing partners is actual climbing ability ... if a person boulders and sports climb hard, i know that at least theyll have the ability to get through cruxes ... unlike some "hardcore" 5.7 trad climbers who need to be dragged up a climb

of course everyone has a good laugh when that boulderer/sport climber laybacks handcracks and falls on an easy offwidth ... but give it a season and theres a good chance theyll pick up the technique and outclimb you easily

its ironic when so many MPers hate on bouldering when THIS climber actually sees positives ...



many of the best trad climbers boulder to some extent ...


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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Jun 8, 2012

Well, I use to boulder but a broken ankle later I prefer roped climbing. I have yet to break anything serious while roped in...


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By gtluke
Jun 8, 2012

For me (I don't hate bouldering) if I travel far to some cool place to climb, I don't see myself wanting to boulder when I can rope climb (trad, toprope, sport..)
I think it's just because I enjoy the destination of a good climb. Getting to a good lookout, the rhythm and process of trad climbing or just longer climb in general.
I have very very limited experience outdoor bouldering but I very much enjoy it in the gym. This year I promised myself I'd go boulder some more. The challenge is super cool. I admit that I do get annoyed and put off by the hand/finger pain that comes with bouldering.


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By Tyson Anderson
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 8, 2012
Rapping from the top of Cat in the hat

I'm not a fan of sit starts


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By Mike Morin
From Evergreen, CO
Jun 8, 2012
Nice ice on 12/24/12.

Every aspect of our activity compliments the other. If you eschew bouldering you're missing out on a good workout that will no doubt benefit you some day when you have to crank a powerful move on a shitty hold. Climb everything you can get your hands on folks! Ice, Snow, Cracks, Crimpers, Slopers, Slabs, Crags, Walls, Pebbles, it's all good fun.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 8, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Scott Sinner wrote:
Stick clipping is neither


You aint shit unless you clip with an actual stick. Painter's poles with carpenter's clamps are invalid.

OK, so hands down the best bouldering is over deep water on a hot day. Amirite? You know it.


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By S. Neoh
Jun 8, 2012

Even if roped climbing is your gig, a month of bouldering during the off-season will be beneficial. When done sensibly, bouldering will improve one's core and contact strengths. Get a good pad and some good spotters though; a busted ankle is a real downer.


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By Will Anglin
From Sykesville, MD
Jun 8, 2012
Soooo gooood!

People who 'hate' bouldering generally either suck at it/don't understand it/are old and can't take the impact or any combination of those things.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 8, 2012
bouldering at RRG

Tyson Anderson wrote:
I'm not a fan of sit starts



+1 If you gotta sit down to make it high enough to be worth climbing, it isn't a climb. Same if you can stand up and look over the boulder at eye level. Why?


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By Mr.Bun
From Bailey, CO
Jun 8, 2012

I think bouldering is like having sex...


...by yourself.

Here are a couple of reasons why:

1. When you want to get out but can't find a partner, just go bouldering.
2. It's gets the job done but there is something missing (rope gear...)


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By Hank the Tank
From Golden, CO
Jun 9, 2012
those sweet glue days.

Bouldering is mega fun and is totally a worthy pursuit in and of itself. Usually plenty of little cuties in the pictures I see to boot. The only truly silly form of climbing is the "uber drytool gang", like the ALL ice gear with NO ice in sight and a bolt at your waist gang. That's really bad.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 9, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Hank Caylor wrote:
The only truly silly form of climbing is the "uber drytool gang", like the ALL ice gear with NO ice in sight and a bolt at your waist gang. That's really bad.


But what about when they take over an entire wall at the indoor gym with their little traffic cones and leashes? That's way cool, isn't it?


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jun 9, 2012
Colonel Mustard

FrankPS wrote:
Here, this will help understand the different types of


Those type of animations are godawful. I'd rather just read the text than hear that monotone nonsense mixed with out of context animations. The secret is usually that the dialogue wouldn't cut it by itself and needs some non-creative "dressing up".

I don't hate bouldering. I find some of the bouldering culture a bit annoying, but each sect has its foibles. I am glad my climbing accomplishments frequently coincide with a cool summit (a concept almost alien to bouldering), but everybody who isn't alpine mountaineering is just wanking anyway.


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By thedogfather
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 9, 2012

Dave MacLeod - nuff said? Hardest trad in the world, V14
Go to his web site to see how all types of climbing are accomplished.


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By kyram adsit
From springville
Jun 9, 2012

Maintain a balance. I boulder hard so I can route climb hard. I route climb hard so I can do longer boulder problems. Any person that sees that you need one more then the other is a fool.


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By kyram adsit
From springville
Jun 9, 2012

Maintain a balance. I boulder hard so I can route climb hard. I route climb hard so I can do longer boulder problems. Any person that sees that you need one more then the other is a fool.


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By Justin Brunson
From Broomfield CO
Jun 9, 2012

I'm with the other guy who stopped bouldering over busted ankles. That, and, i rarely found a problem that inspired me. No hate though.


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By Abel Jones
From Hickory, NC
Jun 9, 2012
Nice Crisp day for an FA

Its all stupid, none of this makes your mama proud!


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Jun 9, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Bouldering is the silliest way to get strong and make your physical weaknesses very clear. To me, the lines aren't inspiring- maybe highballs are, but I'll probably never do one. Bouldering isn't the grandest of pursuits to me. I would rather do a "100ft 7" than a V4 problem with 8 moves.

The reason I attempt V4 problems with 8 moves is because I want to improve. Bouldering is arguably the best way to improve overall power, contact strength, and footwork. IMHO, anyone that is serious about climbing and serious about getting better at it that doesn't incorporate bouldering into their regimen somehow, isn't that serious about it; like the person that said this:

Elena Sera Jose wrote:
I challenge any boulderer to jump on a 12 draw sport 10 or a trad 100ft 7 and manage to keep their balls in the sack!


I have seen that. Many times. The misconception that boulderers lack any endurance whatsoever is funny; as is the idea that they're all acrophobic and that's why they choose to stay close to the ground. This may be the case for some, but to think that it's a vast majority is just incorrect.

What they may lack in endurance, they more than make up for in power and technique. I have seen guys- and girls that boulder V5 and V6 proficiently get on a rope their first time and rip .10a and .10b a new asshole. To ignore why this happens is just feeding your misconception in order to satisfy your ego and keep your fears at a safe distance.


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 9, 2012

Even Daniel woods says bouldering is just training for real rock climbing.


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By JMo
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2012
mayflower

1- every fall= groundfall
2- begins at hard 11
3- Hank is right, cuties, but they often crush

Exercises in frustration.


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Jun 9, 2012
Taking a lunch break on the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

I don't hate bouldering, it just isn't good for my body. I have knee and hip (labrum tear) issues. The repeated impact from 10-15 feet up is terrible for me. Actually, it sounds like doctors are starting to agree that bouldering is probably one of the most destructive subsets of climbing out there.

I do roll my eyes anyone espouses some sort of "purity" regarding their subgenre of climbing. Boulderers happen to espouse this more, but whatever.


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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Jun 9, 2012
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers   in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

JLP wrote:
It comes in the moment after you try it and realize the hardest moves on the hardest climb you've ever done are barely V2 - your ego just can't process it.


Word.

I go to the sport crag, I can do reasonably well, and my ego is intact. Same with any trad crag; I can hang with most of the moderately big boys. Bouldering, I have to put up with skinny-jeans-clad teenagers with shitty technique and super strong fingers, who warmup on climbs harder than my projects. It takes me back to gumby status, and is pretty hard on the ego.

Still, bouldering is pretty damned fun.


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Jun 9, 2012
Mathematical!

I don't think the two should be mutually exclusive. I've always climbed routes and bouldered to some extent, just with a greater emphasis on one or the other at different times.

I used to climb routes a lot, then I decked and broke my back. When I started climbing again a year later I was too afraid to lead anything. I started bouldering a lot, and really enjoyed it. But when I started bouldering harder, I started getting hurt. One broken ankle, a sprained ankle a couple months later, and a torn pulley convinced me to start climbing routes again.

Although, now I'm wondering if maybe I'm just accident prone and should give up climbing altogether.


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