because many of them cant do it .. and think that 5.7 "trad" climb makes em sooo hardcore ...
other than common sense and being safe with a positive attitude ... the first thing i look for in partners is climbing partners is actual climbing ability ... if a person boulders and sports climb hard, i know that at least theyll have the ability to get through cruxes ... unlike some "hardcore" 5.7 trad climbers who need to be dragged up a climb
of course everyone has a good laugh when that boulderer/sport climber laybacks handcracks and falls on an easy offwidth ... but give it a season and theres a good chance theyll pick up the technique and outclimb you easily
its ironic when so many MPers hate on bouldering when THIS climber actually sees positives ...
many of the best trad climbers boulder to some extent ...
For me (I don't hate bouldering) if I travel far to some cool place to climb, I don't see myself wanting to boulder when I can rope climb (trad, toprope, sport..) I think it's just because I enjoy the destination of a good climb. Getting to a good lookout, the rhythm and process of trad climbing or just longer climb in general. I have very very limited experience outdoor bouldering but I very much enjoy it in the gym. This year I promised myself I'd go boulder some more. The challenge is super cool. I admit that I do get annoyed and put off by the hand/finger pain that comes with bouldering.
Every aspect of our activity compliments the other. If you eschew bouldering you're missing out on a good workout that will no doubt benefit you some day when you have to crank a powerful move on a shitty hold. Climb everything you can get your hands on folks! Ice, Snow, Cracks, Crimpers, Slopers, Slabs, Crags, Walls, Pebbles, it's all good fun.
Even if roped climbing is your gig, a month of bouldering during the off-season will be beneficial. When done sensibly, bouldering will improve one's core and contact strengths. Get a good pad and some good spotters though; a busted ankle is a real downer.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From Golden, CO Jun 9, 2012
Bouldering is mega fun and is totally a worthy pursuit in and of itself. Usually plenty of little cuties in the pictures I see to boot. The only truly silly form of climbing is the "uber drytool gang", like the ALL ice gear with NO ice in sight and a bolt at your waist gang. That's really bad.
Here, this will help understand the different types of
Those type of animations are godawful. I'd rather just read the text than hear that monotone nonsense mixed with out of context animations. The secret is usually that the dialogue wouldn't cut it by itself and needs some non-creative "dressing up".
I don't hate bouldering. I find some of the bouldering culture a bit annoying, but each sect has its foibles. I am glad my climbing accomplishments frequently coincide with a cool summit (a concept almost alien to bouldering), but everybody who isn't alpine mountaineering is just wanking anyway.
I don't hate bouldering, it just isn't good for my body. I have knee and hip (labrum tear) issues. The repeated impact from 10-15 feet up is terrible for me. Actually, it sounds like doctors are starting to agree that bouldering is probably one of the most destructive subsets of climbing out there.
I do roll my eyes anyone espouses some sort of "purity" regarding their subgenre of climbing. Boulderers happen to espouse this more, but whatever.
It comes in the moment after you try it and realize the hardest moves on the hardest climb you've ever done are barely V2 - your ego just can't process it.
I go to the sport crag, I can do reasonably well, and my ego is intact. Same with any trad crag; I can hang with most of the moderately big boys. Bouldering, I have to put up with skinny-jeans-clad teenagers with shitty technique and super strong fingers, who warmup on climbs harder than my projects. It takes me back to gumby status, and is pretty hard on the ego.
I don't think the two should be mutually exclusive. I've always climbed routes and bouldered to some extent, just with a greater emphasis on one or the other at different times.
I used to climb routes a lot, then I decked and broke my back. When I started climbing again a year later I was too afraid to lead anything. I started bouldering a lot, and really enjoyed it. But when I started bouldering harder, I started getting hurt. One broken ankle, a sprained ankle a couple months later, and a torn pulley convinced me to start climbing routes again.
Although, now I'm wondering if maybe I'm just accident prone and should give up climbing altogether.