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 ADVANCED
Pixie Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lascivious Conduct T 
Rhythm of the Heat T 
Scream Chuck T 
Silent but Deadly T 
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 
Srepopers Roid TR 
Swift and Silent TR 
Tom's Solo T 
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 
Who's First T 

Who's First 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Squires and Craig Parsley, Feb. 1975
Page Views: 2,612
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Lee nears the top of Who's First, on Pixie Rock in...

Description 

Who's First climbs the center of the south face of Pixie Rock. A short (runout) section of good edges and scoops gets you into a nice crack that you climb to the top. A lot of folks toprope this route and it's neighbors. I believe some bolts have been placed above this face for this purpose. Large cams and long slings can be used as well (or for backup). Very enjoyable.

Protection 

Nuts, medium to large cams. The "s" rating is for the runout at the start of the route if you're leading.


Photos of Who's First Slideshow Add Photo
Who's First
Who's First
Who's First area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Who's First area.
Photo by Blitzo.
Bluto soloing "Who's First". <br />Photo by Frank Santos.
Bluto soloing "Who's First".
Photo by Frank Santos...
Bluto soloing "Who's First". <br />Photo by Frank Santos.
Bluto soloing "Who's First".
Photo by Frank Santos...
Route sketch (not that it's really needed!).
BETA PHOTO: Route sketch (not that it's really needed!).

Comments on Who's First Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

My favorite solo at Indian Cove. An exciting solo downclimb also.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2010

This is a great route and agreed a great solo.

I can see why it is so attractive for the TR group. Nice moves with a fun crack above; making it a great introduction to climbing.

Blute....you go up there without a rope? dang, you're BOLD!
By MikeP
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Scramble up a chimney on the north side of the rock to access the two top-rope bolts about 5' from the lip in a good position for this route. Get there early on weekends - groups tend to set up several TR anchors and homestead. Its a good route for new climbers - hard enough to be challenging but easy enough for them to get up it.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010

Best route of it's grade I've done in Josh. Excellent solo.
By Rodger Raubach
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This is a very fun climb, and is no "giveaway" at the grade. It's what I call an "Old School" 5.6. Highly recommended! It would be 4 stars if it were longer!
By Steve Montesanto
Jan 26, 2014

My first climb ever. Around 1987. 27 years later I'm still hooked to the gills.