Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
This route is easy to find: hike up the main trail until you hit the cliff. You're now standing at the base of the route. Look for a line of bolts up a featured prow with a roof at the bottom, just right of the bolted pair of routes "Sloping Forehead" and "Ivory Tower". The crux is pulling the bulge at bolt #2 - a power move on good holds to a jug. The rest of the pitch is quite steep on a ladder of buckets. If the crux is problematic, it is easily bypassed on the right. Thank God for his many blessings as you enjoy this route.
I believe this is a newer climb that wasn't printed in Peter Hubbel's "Golden Cliffs" guide. I hear there will be updated guidebook coming this spring. The [second] bolt over the bulge is the crux; the rest of the climb has good holds, and feet.
I noticed that the hangers on the anchors are a little bit loose. One of the other photos on this page shows that they have the top-rope setup with the anchors backed up. I am not sure what their motivation was, but maybe somebody who knows about bolt safety should take a look.
The route described is indeed a new route (at least it was not included in Hubbel's latest guidebook). However, the pictures linked to the route are actually pictures of Pack o' Bobs [Eds. now corrected], an old route just to the left of Wholly Holey.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Sep 13, 2008 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I thought the reach for the "good jug" over the roof was rather tough. I kind of did it a bit recklessly based on the description looking for a jug and pumped myself out. I found it to be a long reach, and I would say as hard as some of the 5.9/5.10a roofs in Boulder Canyon. Perhaps it is easier for taller climbers, but I had to use a marginal hold before I could reach the jug. The rest of the route isn't particularly interesting or difficult. A one move wonder.
David Appelhans is correct. This is a 'new' climb AND the pictures focus on Pack O' Bobs [Eds. now corrected]. The climb is immediately to the right of Pack O' Bobs. The TR line (running to the belayer) in the main photo for this page comes down Wholly Holey. The climber is going up Pack O' Bobs.
By Ryan Flynn From: Maple Valley, WA Oct 15, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Climbed this today (10.14.10) and found a loose bolt if anyone has the time to tighten, would be appreciated. I believe it was the fourth bolt.