|7,576 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Wholesome Fullback
This route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.
I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.
P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.
P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.
P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.
Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.
Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.
Small cams at the cruxes, long fist sized crack at the end.
Climber entering the crux finger crack after the t...
Looking down on Paul Rasmussen following the first...
1st pitch of 'Wholesome Fullback'. There is a bel...
the thin crack beginning
Tobey Carman moving through the thin start.
If you link P1/2 up to the wide section, you will ...
On the long first pitch of Wholesome Fullback. Fro...
P1 just before the 5.9 hand crack (photo by Jascha...
starting up the 5.9 hand crack (photo by Jascha)
Not much to pull on but just enough.
|Comments on Wholesome Fullback
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2004
We did this route in one long (~160') pitch to a ledge and then a shorter pitch up the chimney/flared slot (handcrack?). The first pitch has lots of 5.9/10- moves and you need to meter out the pro carefully to do it as one long pitch. However this way you do not have to do a hanging belay. The second pitch is much easier, and although it looks to be flared weirdness from the ground is nothing to worry about.
|By Larry DeAngelo|
Jun 24, 2005
On the beginning of the second pitch, you can also traverse to the right before the initial hand jam. A thin crack (about 5.9) leads up the right right side of the small roof.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2006
Both cruxes felt harder to me too. The second crux was pulling out of the traverse for me. The guidebook made it look like the crux was the traverse. Pulling out of it was funky.
|By Danny Inman|
Oct 10, 2006
Awesome route. did it as one 70-m pitch to base of chimney section, then one 20-m pitch to the top of the block. Rapping off we got our rope hoplessly stuck on Our Father-watch out for the velcro-like nature of the face.
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2006
Agreed on the cruxes, felt harder than 5.10a. I did not see a bolted belay as described in the description (except for at the top, where you rap). Nice route thought. Did in two pitches as described in other posts.
|By Aaron S|
May 12, 2007
We did this with a short first pitch with a nice ledge to the left and then a longer pitch to the top. I did not see any spot that would be remotely comfortable to belay from after that early ledge.
The first pitch felt like standard 10a to me but pulling out of the roof on the second was pretty tough.
|By Thomas Schmid|
Mar 3, 2008
We did this route in two pitches. The first pitch is clearly harder than 10a. The crux was pulling over the roof after the traverse. At the second pitch, just continue on in the chimney and get over the block at the top onto the nice ledge behind it. You can only see two stripped bolts while in the chimney, but don't worry. The proper anchor is around the corner and you can't see it unless you are on the other side. That initially freaked me out a little :)
|By Ben Folsom|
Oct 20, 2008
Yeah, the stripped bolts at the top of the route freaked me out a little too, as I didn't see the nice anchor for a minute. Did a 70 meter pitch to the base of the chimney, and a very short second pitch to the top of the pillar. Great route, nice cracks. Other than the top anchor (at the top of Our Father), I do not remember any other fixed gear on the route.
|By Mark SLC|
Apr 8, 2009
For me also the crux was just after the traverse. Climbing was so fun I got to the end of the 60 and had to downclimb a bit on the face to backclean for a hanging belay (we brought doubles). Never found anchors. 2nd pitch was shorter through the chimney up and right to Our Father anchors. Save some gear or bring trips in hands and set up a belay on pitch 1 when you find a good stance. Great climb, easy pro.
|By Jon O'Brien|
Apr 21, 2009
I've done my share of climbing:IMHO- BEST route I've ever done!! Total sandbag but for nostalgia let's keep calling it 10a! Head's up: you can lead the money pitch of 'Our Father' on the way down! ;-)
Nov 15, 2009
This climb definitely feels harder than 10a! I did Amber(10c) which has the same start and goes left at the hand crack. Wholesome Fullback felt MUCH harder by comparison. Though I think I did it a harder way. The crux was right after the traverse. I descended with two 60m's and it took two rap stations of the three to get to the ground. Maybe to 70's would get you there in one go, though I doubt it.
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Estes Park
Apr 1, 2010
Strong 5.9 climbers looking to push their game beware: This is no gimme 5.10. I reckon the grunt-fest move into the crack just after the traverse right--though certainly well protected--is as hard as passing the bulge on P2 of Triassic sands (which, to be fair, was itself downgraded to 10b in the Handren guide). And this comes AFTER the thin crack-O-doom right off the ground that will have you promising God to give up your every vice.
Still, take that first pitch, young leader, and join the club. Wholesome Fullback is a grand, if at times awkward, line.
Mar 30, 2011
Great route, but beware - I would say it is much harder than .10a. Both cruxes felt harder than Triassic Sands to me. Bring small gear for the first crux. Be sure not to miss the toprope of Our Father on the way down!
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Nov 30, 2011
I also did this route in two pitches. IMHO you would loose out on a completely classic long pitch at the grade if you split the first section into two pitches and you don't gain much benefit. However, even with several long slings I had significant rope drag pulling up past the bulge post traverse. I was pulling up 2-3 feet of slack at a time then making the next move. Also, after leading the first long pitch, my climbing partner who had done the route before commented that he had safely led the first pitch through the thin flake to the right of the handcrack. He said that the flake was consistent with the grade, well protected with small offsets, and saved him the rope drag that I faced pulling over the bulge.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 2, 2012
Sandbagged. I'd give it a solid 5.10+. Amazing route!
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Oct 1, 2012
Just redid the route (was going to climb Amber but landed behind a party of three) this weekend. We broke it into three pitches and I have to say that the climb was very pleasant that way. The upper pitch retains its punch, but at least you're not fighting terrible rope drag through the crux.
Nov 30, 2012
Did with one 70 to the top, belayed from the top of the pillar from a gear anchor in the crack, best way to do it, maybe an extra #2 and 3 to make ya feel nice and fuzzy inside, but not quite runout without them. great route.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2013
If you plan on doing this in one pitch one double length and many shoulder length slings are nice to keep rope drag down. A single rack (purple mastercam to bd #3) with an extra #2 should get you up and in addition for the belay I used #4, 3 & 1.
Apr 20, 2013
This is the best single pitch of climbing I've done in Red Rocks. The splitter hands below the traverse is incredible, just too short.
We ran a single pitch to the good ledge just below the chimney, seemed closer to 180'. Rope drag was not too bad. Took a full double rack with extra #1, 2, 3 and do not regret carrying it all. We used a #4 on the 2nd pitch, but not necessary if you don't mind running it out on easy offwidth.