Who wants to talk Crampons? 2015

Looking to upgrade to vertical front-points, most likely two.
Yes I did some forum searches, yes I read Dane's blog.

Looks like my options are (am I forgetting any noteworthy)
BD Cyborg
Petzl Lynx
Grivel G22
Grivel G14

FIRST - GENERALITIES TO ALL BRANDS
My first though when looking at these is about how the front-points on most of these models are removeable/ and replaceable. While I can see that as a bonus, I instantly think that there is one more thing to go wrong.
Do you guys have trouble with this bolt loosening, or is it set it and forget it?

Dane constantly talks about interchangeable parts between MFG's. I've played with BD toe bails on Petzl's, but nothing more.
Can I pretty much interchange any parts? i.e. If I bought Lynx can I throw my sabretooth rears on that model and the spring-pin will just work, or how is this acheived?

Can others attest to inferiority of the Petzl heel lock? I first became aware of this over the weekend (then confirmed in reading coldthistle), when my GFs hands were frozen and I took her crampons off her. Seems BD is way better attachment.
Anyone have any strong opinion on this? Dane, how's that petzl rear that you cut up top so the, leverlock tensions it closed? Held-up? Durable? Pics up close?

Metal preference anyone? I have sabretooths. Seems like I am always sharpening them, sharpening takes forever, and they never seem sharp. I kind of always attributed this to the stainless. I know a sharpend pair of Petzl's looks like it could hurt someone, never felt that way about BD. It appears to me that Petzl steel (chromeoly??) sharpens easier? is harder, holds edge longer?

Hiking, I am really happy with how my Sabretooths hike. Be it the anti-bot plates, 12-points, or whatever. Can I expect to see very big differences if going with another MFG?

P: PROS C: CONS Q: QUESTIONS, PERTAINING TO AVAILABLE MODELS

BD Cyborg
P: BD has good fit, fits my currents
C: Stainless construction, weight

Petzl Lynx
P: Metal
C: Heel system, price

Grivel G14
P:
C:
Q: Some photos show that funky accordion thing? What's with weird toe-bail, does it get in the way? Does this not have a spring clip for adjustability? Is Grivel Metal similar to Petzl?

Grivel G22
P: One piece construction of vertical front-points, lightness
C: Doesn't handle moderate terrain as well, 10pt
Q: Does the frame system compact down on-the-go? I'm a size 12 boot and like to collapse to put on the back of my pack. How does Monorail affect hiking/ climbing?

Why duals? Why not Cassin Bladerunners?

The lynx can convert pretty easily from dual to mono and fits boots with or without toe welts (an advantage for me since I own boots with both).

Bill Kirby wrote: Why duals? Why not Cassin Bladerunners?

Kirby, are you becoming a troll? No seriously I don't know, just figured while stepping into the new world of verticals, I'd keep two points for more purchase, and a feel on the ice I am more used to.

So you've never tried a vertical mono point crampon and you're calling me a troll?

Seriously, try out every crampon you can get your hands on before you buy. After that go buy a pair of Bladerunners. if you can honestly tell me you don't like them I'll buy them from you.

Just another option: Petzl Sarkens

I have used these crampons for years after using interchangeable mono/dual point crampons such as the BD Cyborg and Bionic.

Benefits:

-Extremely sharp dual vertical front points with widened upper frontpoints for increased stability in steep snow/neve
-Light
-Cheaper than other models
-Reasonable life for continued sharpening of frontpoints

Cons:
-Non replaceable frontpoints

I have used these crampons exclusively for the last four years from WI3-WI6 waterfalls, general mountaineering and extended technical alpinism in the Alaska Range including the Moonflower on Mount Hunter, Mount Huntington and Denali.

My point: They are a versatile crampon that performs (I think) better in the mountains than an exclusive monopoint or any other fixed dual point crampon.

I am in the market for a new set of crampons and if I were to get any other set, it would be the Petzl Lynx. They are very modifiable and the only benefit they don't have over the Sarken is that widened hood-like feature on the frontpoints for increased stability in steep snow/neve. In every other way, they are more customizable.

Good luck!

Honestly, at this point, all of the top end crampons are pretty much awesome, and you'll be happy with any of them.

Out of your list, I would tend to default to the cyborgs, since they're time-proven, versatile, and have very low long term cost of ownership. If cost isn't a big issue, the lynx is a touch more versatile (but beware of very, very expensive replacement front points). No clue about the bladerunners, except that people on the interwebs seem to like them, they look really nice on paper, and they're expensive (edit: $350!?!?!) and shiny.

In terms of having one more failure point for the replaceable front points, it's a non-issue while climbing. Unless you did something really dumb, the attachments are super robust. Where you might experience issues, however, is when you actually go to switch the points (or convert to mono), especially if you haven't been super careful about keeping things dry. Small parts with a bit of rust can be a pain.

Personally, if you already have horizontals, I would also consider just going straight to a dedicated mono-points. I've switched to monos (stingers) pretty much permanently for anything technical, and have a pair of horizontals for easy gully days. My dual verticals have become loaner crampons, and I haven't wanted them since.

Clint,

You bring up a good point, and possibly some motivation for me. That's actually what my gf's crampons are. She constantly tells me I should try them on, but I never have since she has the ones with the rubber front bail. She's had fitment issues, and we tried everything from foamcore custom made footcups, to oval biner blocks, to using a BD size small toe bail as a front stop inside of the rubber foot cup... Her problem is a size 5.5 foot. Now she has a front toe-welt (new boots) so we are thinking of ripping the front tabs. Heard a suggestion this weekend which we will also probably try next.

But I think I'll end up ripping the front tabs off with an angle grinder and trying them pro-version with bd bails for me.

That kind of seems like it answers alot of my questions. Integrated constr. front points, with petzl metal, fully compactable, and 12pts, and then I could swap the rear's for BD if I didn't like the heel attatch. Oooooh, you may be on to something, now I'm just interested in how they climb, because effectively the T-bar front-point has most surface area (against purchase) of any crampon out there.

I switched from Rambos to G20s this season. I haven't gotten out as much as I would like but did five days in Ouray on mostly moderate terrain and found no reason not to recommend them. Shaved like six ounces off each foot. Fewer points under foot might be a concern but not a factor so far.

The G20s fold in half for transport. It's awkward, but better than nothing.

The Petzl hell piece is the stupidest one I've used so far (aside from the wire lock heel), but it's not so bad that I don't still love my Darts. You can easily slip a tool under the lever and pry it off if for some reason they are on way too tight. I'm almost positive I could put a BD heel lever on there if I cared.

I've never worried about the bolt on my pre-stainless Cyborgs. The modularity is nice for trying out configurations, and I have replaced frontpoints a few times now.

I sharpen on a knife making machine, so it's all fast and easy. I only sharpen every month or so or before an important climb. If you sharpen too often, it really reduces lifespan.

Regarding your GF's crampons, just mount a bail.

My Sabers have the stupid plastic things and my narrow toes press through as well. I just put a front bail on behind the plastic and they fit like a real crampon with the added versatility of fitting my summer boots if I take the bails off. If the plastic is still annoying, cut it off. I did that for a friend who doesn't have any need for the plastic.

I just have to chime in here to say that the heel bails on Petzl Crampons are fine (I would even say great). I always get a super bomber attachment and have never had an issue getting them off.

As far as BD heel bails go... The company I work for rents tons of BD Contact's to clients (same heel bail as all there 'pons as far as I can tell) and every. single. one. has a broken heel bail. They still function but the micro-adjustment on the heel bail doesn't work on any of them and some of them have broken plastic on the actual lip that enters the welt. Granted, clients don't take great care of the rented gear.

Just my two cents. I loooove my Petzl 'pons.

Dobson wrote:I'm almost positive I could put a BD heel lever on there if I cared.

I just revisited photos of swapping heel attachment. I was confused. I thought the suggestion was to swap the entire rear, but now I see it is just the heel leverlock and wire attachment. Got it!

Dobson wrote:Regarding your GF's crampons, just mount a bail.

Thread drift, but yes that's what we did and problem solved. That is until she moved from her leather boots (feet were too cold) to now double plastics. Previously her forefoot would go through the front posts and reduce her crampon frontpoints to zero. Now with larger foot volume in doubles, she's too far back in the crampon with the extra toe bails. But when we remove toe bails, and she's just in the rubber, her foot lifts out of the crampon and over front posts, no matter how tight we get them cinched. It was said to me that a possibility is that her small foot means crampon is all the way cinched, and lever bar is making two points of contact in the rear and therefor acting more rigidly than design intention. (Her lever bar, when sized for her foot pokes out the rear, as it does with anyones in collapsed position) It was mentioned that trimming the lever bar will negate that affect, and allow the crampon to accept the rock of her boots' sole better. So looks like I'll step one, grind the tabs off and try for myself!!!, and step two rip-down the lever bar if we're still having problems.

Bill Kirby wrote: Seriously, try out every crampon you can get your hands on before you buy. After that go buy a pair of Bladerunners.

Another vote for the Cassin Bladerunners.

There are two fixed frontpoints just behind the mono so you won't really be losing any purchase vs. dual. If you really want to get into semantics then call the Bladerunners a tri-point. They're the best 'pons out there, they're just expensive.

The lynx are a pretty good crampon. Not sure about this heel bail issue people are having, are they difficult to get off? Just pull the strap backwards and the lever pops right off..

Give mono's a shot. Counter intuitively they actually seem more stable on ice than duals. Maybe they force you to drop the heel a bit more and improve your technique.

I upgraded from Sarkens to Lynx this season and I really like them. The points seem to stay sharp for a long time and personally I think the ability to replace the front points is a great feature. Might have to try out some Blade Runners with all the support they seem to be getting but just my two cents, the Lynx are a great set of crampons. I also have not had any problems with the rear heel bail and they fit my Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX's pretty well it seems (never had them fall off so that's a positive I guess).

I really like my new set of Petzl Lynx crampons. They fit multiple pairs of boots well, and I haven't had any issues with the heel bail. To me, the craftmanship of the Lynx trumped that of the Cyborgs. Aside from any actual metallurgical testing, the steel Petzl chose for the Lynx seems superior to my stainless steel BDs. Aside from the cost, I don't feel like there are any disadvantages to the Lynx.

Bill Kirby wrote: So you've never tried a vertical mono point crampon and you're calling me a troll? Seriously, try out every crampon you can get your hands on before you buy. After that go buy a pair of Bladerunners. if you can honestly tell me you don't like them I'll buy them from you.

Missed that you responded back, I was kidding about the troll comment> I asked a million questions about a million crampons and you bring up the crampons I don't mention.

Anyway, I figured this thread might have some use for others in a similar place as me, wanting to switch to vertical front points. But for me the price tag on Bladerunner is WAYYY too much. I'll probably spend under $150. That's the big turn on to the Cyborgs.

EDIT: but yeah I probably do need to try on some monos before I start throwing money out the window. Just been ancey to get something before the NE ice season is over.

Yeah, that's the issue with the Cassins. They may very well be the best, most versatile single pair of crampons on the market. At the price, however, you need to compare them to the versatility and durability of having two pairs of other crampons. For example: the Bladerunners don't climb hard mixed near as well as G20s (which feel almost as nice as my bolt-ons), nor are they as light and easy to walk in as mountaineering crampons.

Beean wrote:Just pull the strap backwards and the lever pops right off..

As I understand it, this is not the case. That is the action I do with my BD crampons. Which I appreciate the convenience, as I pop them off one handed, standing, not leaning against anything. However, as I understand it, and what I experienced taking my GFs crampons off her, is that pulling the strap backwards actually doesn't do anything, or rather holds them on tighter. You have to grab right behind the heel and push down/ back on the lever to remove. While I am sure the action can be quickly learned, and the convenience of "just pulling the strap backwards" would quickly be overlooked. The more concerning thing is the security on my foot. The BD & Grivel Straps effectively wrench the rear levelock onto your foot. If the strap is cinched, it cannot be undone. This is not the case with Petzl.

In terms of security, the Petzl design is just fine. The strap directly holds the plastic against the welt, as opposed to holding the other end of the lever mechanism. It's just harder to yank off, which isn't an issue if you're fitted well.