Who wants real anchors on Vision Quest, IC?

There is already 3 manky fixed pin garbage anchors on Vision Questhttp://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105717655. How bout' putting a real bolt anchor next to the drilled baby angles halfway sticking out?
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The Larry wrote:Sounds like a good idea to me. Did you guys jump?

No, but we're gonna. The new anchors are nothing more than updating the rotting tat that now serves as belays.

Do it up!

Do it!

While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about.

Worthy route that should be maintained. +1 for bomb anchors, especially that first set of mank.

Several other anchors on the butte could use an upgrade as well...

bring it bro

them anchors are scat

I'll donate some 1/2 by 3.5 inch powers bolts to the cause.

josh

Ditto the above.

Thanks for asking. Do it!

Awesome folks! I thought this route was top-notch, but shockingly bad fixed belay anchors. I'm not looking to fancy anything up. Just some solid anchors where the belays already exist. I totally thought I was gonna' get flamed hard for even asking.

By the way, confession time, that was my first trip ever to Indian Creek. Never laid eyes on the place till' last Friday night. Those cracks are gonna haunt me till the end of days. It's the only place I really want to hang out at, for the next 10 years or so.

Shockingly Bad- Please hank, you must be aging. Those bit's are bomber, unless ya weight them.

No good jumping in IC ?

Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period.

biscuits wrote:Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period.

Totally fucking agree!
vimeo.com/21237372

It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camo them!

Tony B wrote:It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camp them!

Gotcha' Tony. I wasn't thinking raphangars or even chains. Just a coupla' sweet bolts.

Whoops! "camo them" not "camp them!"
Main reason for concern is that if they are good rap anchors, people will rap the route & discover things like the fact that they don't reach on single ropes, and you can't pull the rope, and then it gets stuck... which has happened over the years.

Rich Farnham wrote:While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about.

Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?

Price wrote: Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Umm...okay.

My understanding is that wasn't the only sketchy block. Some friends were on the route recently and said there were a few other, smaller blocks that seemed pretty precarious and dangerous. If someone is doing route maintenance on a climb that is seeing more traffic (possibly freeing up some of these blocks), I don't see any problem with cleaning them out. If they are critical to getting up the climb, then maybe we have to accept them. If not, what's the value in leaving them there as an accident waiting to happen?

Price wrote: Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself. Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?

I never felt the need to touch that block at all. You can easily tell where the fracture is and just avoid it, easily. Besides, I wrapped Tibetan Prayer flags around the death-block, what could possibly go wrong?

Hank -

Man, probably 15 years ago Brian Jonas and I tried to do that route. I got to that drilled angle and got a #4 cam in for the belay - at that time I remember the drilled angle looked pretty good. Just about then it started lightning on the rim over near the dugout ranch. At first I thought we could punch it to the top, but just as Brian started to climb it really started to flash around us. For a second I thought about rapping off that single drilled angle and then said F it and left the #4. Brian went back a week later with his GF and did the route and got my #4 back. I remember him calling me to say 'dude, wasn't a good GF route' - ha, ha.

Anyway, there is rarely an excuse for a poor anchor. Put a good bolt in!

Paul