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Who wants real anchors on Vision Quest, IC?
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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 15, 2011
Yoda
There is already 3 manky fixed pin garbage anchors on Vision Questmountainproject.com/v/utah/moa.... How bout' putting a real bolt anchor next to the drilled baby angles halfway sticking out?
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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 16, 2011
Yoda
The Larry wrote:
Sounds like a good idea to me. Did you guys jump?


No, but we're gonna. The new anchors are nothing more than updating the rotting tat that now serves as belays.

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By chosspector
From San Juans, CO
May 16, 2011
Do it up!

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By krispyyo
From Littleton, CO
May 16, 2011
One of the most amazing sport climbs ever. Caveman (5.11d) on Thaiwand Wall, Tonsai, Thailand. The move above where I am is the crux, but stays pretty sustained the rest of the way. Awesome exposure and excellent moves the whole way.
Do it!

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By Rich Farnham
May 16, 2011
While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about.

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By Ol' Toby
From WA
May 16, 2011
A brilliant climb.
Worthy route that should be maintained. +1 for bomb anchors, especially that first set of mank.

Several other anchors on the butte could use an upgrade as well...

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By ddriver
From SLC
May 16, 2011
bring it bro

them anchors are scat

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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
May 16, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
I'll donate some 1/2 by 3.5 inch powers bolts to the cause.

josh

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By Brian in SLC
May 16, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Ditto the above.

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By Bob Dobalina
May 16, 2011
Thanks for asking. Do it!

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 16, 2011
Yoda
Awesome folks! I thought this route was top-notch, but shockingly bad fixed belay anchors. I'm not looking to fancy anything up. Just some solid anchors where the belays already exist. I totally thought I was gonna' get flamed hard for even asking.

By the way, confession time, that was my first trip ever to Indian Creek. Never laid eyes on the place till' last Friday night. Those cracks are gonna haunt me till the end of days. It's the only place I really want to hang out at, for the next 10 years or so.

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By john strand
From southern colo
May 16, 2011
Shockingly Bad- Please hank, you must be aging. Those bit's are bomber, unless ya weight them.

No good jumping in IC ?

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By Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
May 16, 2011
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.
Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period.

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 16, 2011
Yoda
biscuits wrote:
Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period.


Totally fucking agree!

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 16, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camo them!

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 16, 2011
Yoda
Tony B wrote:
It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camp them!


Gotcha' Tony. I wasn't thinking raphangars or even chains. Just a coupla' sweet bolts.

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 17, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Whoops! "camo them" not "camp them!"
Main reason for concern is that if they are good rap anchors, people will rap the route & discover things like the fact that they don't reach on single ropes, and you can't pull the rope, and then it gets stuck... which has happened over the years.

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By Price
From SLC, UT
May 17, 2011
Rich Farnham wrote:
While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about.


Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?

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By Rich Farnham
May 17, 2011
Price wrote:
Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Umm...okay.

My understanding is that wasn't the only sketchy block. Some friends were on the route recently and said there were a few other, smaller blocks that seemed pretty precarious and dangerous. If someone is doing route maintenance on a climb that is seeing more traffic (possibly freeing up some of these blocks), I don't see any problem with cleaning them out. If they are critical to getting up the climb, then maybe we have to accept them. If not, what's the value in leaving them there as an accident waiting to happen?

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 17, 2011
Yoda
Price wrote:
Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself. Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?


I never felt the need to touch that block at all. You can easily tell where the fracture is and just avoid it, easily. Besides, I wrapped Tibetan Prayer flags around the death-block, what could possibly go wrong?

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By Paul Gagner
May 17, 2011
Hank -

Man, probably 15 years ago Brian Jonas and I tried to do that route. I got to that drilled angle and got a #4 cam in for the belay - at that time I remember the drilled angle looked pretty good. Just about then it started lightning on the rim over near the dugout ranch. At first I thought we could punch it to the top, but just as Brian started to climb it really started to flash around us. For a second I thought about rapping off that single drilled angle and then said F it and left the #4. Brian went back a week later with his GF and did the route and got my #4 back. I remember him calling me to say 'dude, wasn't a good GF route' - ha, ha.

Anyway, there is rarely an excuse for a poor anchor. Put a good bolt in!

Paul

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 18, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Regarding the above, this is tust a reminder that a single pin + gear is not a poor anchor. Otherwise there is no such thing as a good one on most trad climbs. As previously mentioned, it isn't a rap route.

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By Brigette
From Seattle, WA
May 18, 2011
At the anchors.
Hank Caylor wrote:
It's the only place I really want to hang out at, for the next 10 years or so.


+100

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By Culver
From Colorado Springs, CO
May 20, 2011
top of Blodgett's
Totally fucking agree!
>

ive had the song from this awesome video stuck in my head since i saw it the other day. thanks hank

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By Ben Walburn
May 24, 2011
"This definitely beats lying in a pile of saw dust all day"
Andy Donson and I climbed this route some 14 years ago. Amongst other memorable events our ropes got stuck on the 2nd rap leaving us stranded for a few hours in the dark, snow and rain. After several attempts to free them Andy prussic-ed up the remaining line only to find that the friction of wet sandstone over a 90 degree angle was the only problem. The rappels anchors at the second station were some 15ft deep in the ledge from the lip. Is this still the decent for the route? Hank I'll Draw Eddie "The Trooper" on the back of your jean jacket, or maybe get you the Judas Priest Box set if you replace them.
Thanks Buddy

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By Paul Gagner
Oct 10, 2012
Do it Hank.

P.

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