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Who wants real anchors on Vision Quest, IC?
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Administrator
May 15, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
There is already 3 manky fixed pin garbage anchors on Vision Questmountainproject.com/v/utah/moa.... How bout' putting a real bolt anchor next to the drilled baby angles halfway sticking out?
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Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
Administrator
May 16, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
The Larry wrote:
Sounds like a good idea to me. Did you guys jump?


No, but we're gonna. The new anchors are nothing more than updating the rotting tat that now serves as belays.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
May 16, 2011
Do it up! chosspector
From San Juans, CO
Joined Oct 19, 2008
1,287 points
May 16, 2011
One of the most amazing sport climbs ever. Caveman...
Do it! krispyyo
From Littleton, CO
Joined Apr 17, 2006
80 points
May 16, 2011
While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about. Rich Farnham
Joined Aug 21, 2002
279 points
May 16, 2011
A brilliant climb.
Worthy route that should be maintained. +1 for bomb anchors, especially that first set of mank.

Several other anchors on the butte could use an upgrade as well...
Ol' Toby
From WA
Joined Dec 9, 2005
338 points
May 16, 2011
bring it bro

them anchors are scat
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
303 points
May 16, 2011
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
I'll donate some 1/2 by 3.5 inch powers bolts to the cause.

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,739 points
May 16, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Ditto the above. Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
May 16, 2011
Thanks for asking. Do it! Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Administrator
May 16, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
Awesome folks! I thought this route was top-notch, but shockingly bad fixed belay anchors. I'm not looking to fancy anything up. Just some solid anchors where the belays already exist. I totally thought I was gonna' get flamed hard for even asking.

By the way, confession time, that was my first trip ever to Indian Creek. Never laid eyes on the place till' last Friday night. Those cracks are gonna haunt me till the end of days. It's the only place I really want to hang out at, for the next 10 years or so.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
May 16, 2011
Shockingly Bad- Please hank, you must be aging. Those bit's are bomber, unless ya weight them.

No good jumping in IC ?
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,279 points
May 16, 2011
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to ...
Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period. Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Joined May 20, 2007
719 points
Administrator
May 16, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
biscuits wrote:
Hank, I have to ask... what kept you away all this time? There's nothing like the creek. period.


Totally fucking agree!
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
May 16, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camo them! Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,667 points
Administrator
May 16, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
Tony B wrote:
It's a classy route that 10 years ago was somewhat 'adventure' and saw little traffic. With the modern crowd/use the route sees, it probably may justify better anchors... however, don't I recall that the rap was not down the route, but rather down the east Face to the North of the route? Anyway, bear in mind that the anchors should be solid but never really were a rap line, they were belay anchors if it matters. They might as well be solid, regardless. Just do them right and camp them!


Gotcha' Tony. I wasn't thinking raphangars or even chains. Just a coupla' sweet bolts.
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
May 17, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Whoops! "camo them" not "camp them!"
Main reason for concern is that if they are good rap anchors, people will rap the route & discover things like the fact that they don't reach on single ropes, and you can't pull the rope, and then it gets stuck... which has happened over the years.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,667 points
May 17, 2011
Rich Farnham wrote:
While you're at it, why don't you see if you can knock loose some of those "death blocks" everyone is always talking about.


Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?
Price
From SLC, UT
Joined Apr 29, 2007
324 points
May 17, 2011
Price wrote:
Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself.

Umm...okay.

My understanding is that wasn't the only sketchy block. Some friends were on the route recently and said there were a few other, smaller blocks that seemed pretty precarious and dangerous. If someone is doing route maintenance on a climb that is seeing more traffic (possibly freeing up some of these blocks), I don't see any problem with cleaning them out. If they are critical to getting up the climb, then maybe we have to accept them. If not, what's the value in leaving them there as an accident waiting to happen?
Rich Farnham
Joined Aug 21, 2002
279 points
Administrator
May 17, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
Price wrote:
Why don't you not. That big block you see in the middle of Hank's picture is the death block. Yes it's the size of a refrigerator, and yes it's going to crush and kill someone someday, but for now it's part of the route. Let your mother take care of herself. Hank, good on you for replacing the worn out bolts. I don't worry much about you altering classics. That OW is fun on the 2nd pitch, no?


I never felt the need to touch that block at all. You can easily tell where the fracture is and just avoid it, easily. Besides, I wrapped Tibetan Prayer flags around the death-block, what could possibly go wrong?
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
595 points
May 17, 2011
Hank -

Man, probably 15 years ago Brian Jonas and I tried to do that route. I got to that drilled angle and got a #4 cam in for the belay - at that time I remember the drilled angle looked pretty good. Just about then it started lightning on the rim over near the dugout ranch. At first I thought we could punch it to the top, but just as Brian started to climb it really started to flash around us. For a second I thought about rapping off that single drilled angle and then said F it and left the #4. Brian went back a week later with his GF and did the route and got my #4 back. I remember him calling me to say 'dude, wasn't a good GF route' - ha, ha.

Anyway, there is rarely an excuse for a poor anchor. Put a good bolt in!

Paul
Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
24 points
May 18, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Regarding the above, this is tust a reminder that a single pin + gear is not a poor anchor. Otherwise there is no such thing as a good one on most trad climbs. As previously mentioned, it isn't a rap route. Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,667 points
May 18, 2011
At the anchors.
Hank Caylor wrote:
It's the only place I really want to hang out at, for the next 10 years or so.


+100
Brigette
From Duvall, WA
Joined Sep 22, 2008
391 points
May 20, 2011
top of Blodgett's
Totally fucking agree!
>

ive had the song from this awesome video stuck in my head since i saw it the other day. thanks hank
Culver
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 19, 2010
79 points
May 24, 2011
"This definitely beats lying in a pile of saw...
Andy Donson and I climbed this route some 14 years ago. Amongst other memorable events our ropes got stuck on the 2nd rap leaving us stranded for a few hours in the dark, snow and rain. After several attempts to free them Andy prussic-ed up the remaining line only to find that the friction of wet sandstone over a 90 degree angle was the only problem. The rappels anchors at the second station were some 15ft deep in the ledge from the lip. Is this still the decent for the route? Hank I'll Draw Eddie "The Trooper" on the back of your jean jacket, or maybe get you the Judas Priest Box set if you replace them.
Thanks Buddy
Ben Walburn
Joined Jul 13, 2007
597 points
Oct 10, 2012
Do it Hank.

P.
Paul Gagner
Joined Oct 9, 2007
24 points


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