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Who are your FA heroes and why?
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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 22, 2013

Huber Bros.

They are the ones who really kicked off the big wall free climbing golden era. Sure Skinner and Piana on Salathe and Lynn on the Nose were influential, and Caldwell has done the most. But it was Alex and Thomas who really started the searching, finding, and sending bottom to top free lines on El Cap. And big wall free climbing is the pinnacle of the sport to me, so its an easy choice.


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By doak
From boulder, co
May 22, 2013
Drinking with Moses

If I lived near the Cascades, it would be Fred Beckey, but I don't. And since someone else already picked Roger Briggs, I'll go with Jim Erickson.


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By kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
May 23, 2013
Birds and Beards

Josh Mucci is def my FA hero. Hard but well equiped aid routes on Liberty Camp and More in the valley. Great free routes at Parkline Slabs, many more.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 23, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Hero is not a word I would use but I do respect these guys. Dennis Horning, Steve Grossman, Dave Baker, Mike McEwen, Paul Davidson, Jim Waugh, Ray Ringle, John Steiger, Bob Kamps,Herb and Eve Laeger, Chouinard, Robbins, Warren Harding, Layton
Kor, Alan Watts, the Conns, Skinner, Jim Scott.


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By David Gershwin
From San Diego, CA.
May 24, 2013

Bob Gaines. He keeps on finding the classic lines, and protects them just right.


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By safetyfourth
May 24, 2013

zoso wrote:
Pretty creepy you found that. That's not my route though and I didn't put the anchors in. Stalker.


Click Zoso. Read Contributions. See the word "EVAR". Dab.


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By Peteoria
May 24, 2013

Mr Clean wrote:
Fritz Wiessner


Funny no one mentioned Fritz's K2 attempt decades before it was actually summited. I think his 5.11s were mostly in the Dolomites, while the gunks and everywhere else in the US is around 5.8.

But my +1 goes to Briggs. Just so full of positivity! He views others as equals, which I rarely see other climbers doing (purists, 9-5ers, dirtbag clicks, crack / OW, ice climbers, and all around "I'm so much better than you cuz I climb harder grades"...). He dislikes people who "time" their climbs for speed records. Especially those who run downhill (ex. roger's brother Bill has many speed records in the flatirons (maiden car to car in 2:30)). The purpose of climbing is to get in touch with yourself. This cannot happen when you falsely place yourself on a pedestal of arrogance, nor when you bring your entire domestic situation with you (watch, iphone, distances, grades, "objective things" created only by our western mindset).

Although still chillin on hard routes in the Black, Roger leaves his "traditude" in the basement and inspires climbers old and new, experienced, sporty, whatever. He also actively participates in preserving the earth. By creating the BCC, he is helping to protect the over-visited Boulder Canyon from Cali Bros who shit in the rivers and leave roaches & candy wrappers on the ground. I'm not against smoking, but if you're privileged enough to drop dough on drugs (well, any luxury goods like climbing gear), the least one can do is not litter. In Roger's words, he just wants climbers 100 years from now to have the same great experiences he is lucky enough to have now.

I'd also send some +1s to all the dudes who see that life is outside, not to be restricted solely to "climbing." This shout out goes to the FA of the north face of the Eiger team, who cycled with their gear from Germany in order to climb. Our pal Roger Beeze also biked from Boulder to solo the Diamond in a record 5 1/2 hours "strip club to summit" (realistically he probably started at home near the "official" starting point of the club"). Also I'll shout out to Jim Erickson, as he frequently would cycle to onsight free solo 5.10 FAs. Not sure if I'm allowed to shout out to MIc Fairchild, since it's unconfirmed if he "actually" rollerbladed up the third flatiron. But I'll shout out to anyone who has skied DOWN the 3rd &/or Long's peak and other great alpine peaks. Finally to peeps like Hank Caylor or Steph Davis for climbing to base jump. The point is to integrate several models of movement into one terrific outdoor experience!

Finally, If I were do dress up as a hero for Halloween, I think it would have to be Layton Kor or if I had a buddy, we'd go as the HUBER bro's.

-1 for the dude saying he himself is his source of inspiration. If it were, he'd have to hand build his bolt gun, hand make his bolts, hand make his clothing, ropes, shoes... all without ever having seen/heard of sport climbing. EVER. Even "composers" of original symphonies credit those who gave them inspiration. I believe that "GRATITUDE" is the most important emotion one may express. And it's this very gratitude that defines my heroes like Briggs from others who merely pulled their way up some silly 5.15. Thank you to all of my heroes, climbers and non climbers (einstein) alike, for inspiring me to create myself in the best way possible.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
May 24, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Lots of really great climbers in this topic and its hard to pin down one hero.

My personal "HERO" is Glen Dawson, he was one of the first to learn Rope Work in the USA.

He took his new skills to the Sierra and climbed the East Face of Mt Whitney and many other Sierra Pks.

And in 1938, along with his good friend, Dick Jones, did the FA of the Mechanics Route at Taquitz.

Thats 5.8 R - buy todays standard, back then it was one of the hardest climbs in the world.

Glen is still alive and is 101 if I recall correctly, he has a computer and a E-mail address.

He is pretty friendly and has a steady stream of visitors, I looked him up, we had lunch and he showed me some really nice photos from way back in the day.


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By john strand
From southern colo
May 24, 2013

It's hard to say favorites.. but Todd Skinner was sure a hell of a lot of fun to climb with.. total inspiration,all the time


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By shady
May 27, 2013

John Gill


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By bruno-cx
May 27, 2013
shirtless wonder

Gill
Murray
Sherman.

All contributed to bouldering as a sport by establishing numerous classic test pieces.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
May 27, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!

I always searched out routes with a bit of history to them when I visited areas. I tried to send every Royal Robbins route at Tahquitz.
I was always impressed that their 5.7 still made you try hard with modern gear. It helped me learn a lot of respect for their abilities.


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By Kaylee Catmull
From Riverside, CA
May 27, 2013

Dave Graham
Chris Sharma
Royal Robbins
Layton Kor
Fred Beckey
John Gill
Hot Henry Barber
Brendt Arnold


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
May 28, 2013
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

MP should have a search feature based on first assentionists, along with some other featutes. So we can make to-do lists based on the FA. I personally strive to climb the routes put up by the climbers I look up to. "Running Man" is next on my list.


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By Captain Choss Sauce
From Durango, CO
May 28, 2013

All the unknowns out there. You know, those times when you're off thinking you're in new territory but then find a sling or fixed piece on route. Sure you get a little pissed. This was supposed to be your glory. But then you are reminded that its the beauty of the climb that matters, not the creator. Or Layton Kor and Charlie Fowler


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By Tug
May 30, 2013

Me. I don't really care what other people do.


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