This little pocket area is obscure and almost completely unknown. It suffers from a long approach, but it is a nice diversion on busy weekends or holidays. Don't expect ot spend the whole day climbing, there are only two routes.
The wall is south facing, but shaded by some big hemlock trees. It is proteceted from rain, but tends to condensate. The area is beautiful and well worth taking some time to enjoy. You can make a side trip to Whittleton Arch along the way.
Follow hwy 11 past Miguel's to Whittleton Campground. Park nearby and hike through the campground to the Whittleton Trail (Sheltowee Trace follows this as well). Hike up the trail past the spur which goes to Whittleton Arch. After the split you'll hike up and then back down a hill, cross a tributary and then up and down a second, shorter hill. Just before a large boudler on the left, and the trail drops into the creek you can see a cliff to the left through the trees. Hike up the hill and locate a sport route next to a deep rockhouse with an easy crack coming out of it.
Climb the easy looking crack in the obtuse dihedral. Abandon the crack for nice plates to the left near the top. The gear is less than ideal so this is not a great first gear lead. Rappel from bolted anchors or a chain around a boulder to the left above Tuff Noogies. Variation: Climb the scary and dangerous crack above to the summit 5.9+ R....[more]Browse More Classics in KY
It's really easy to just hike from Miguels which makes this a pretty cool spot. Plus there's a waterfall and arch on a short ~0.5 mile trail that shoots off from the main one just before getting to the climbing area if you want to take a little side trip from climbing.