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Whitney Portal

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Beach, Right Side, The 
Beach, The 
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Candlelight Wall 
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Portal Edge Wall 
Premier Buttress 
Roadwork Wall 
Solstice Celebration Wall 
Whale, The 
Whitney Portal Buttress 
Wrinkled Lady, The 

Whitney Portal  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 36.58651, -118.24075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 162,632
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 23, 2006
Forecast:
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The granite of Whitney Portal, from above. April 2...

Description 

The Whitney Portal is home to many cragging routes as well as some longer, older Beckey routes. The sought-after climb is Bony Fingers, but there is supposedly quite a bit of development going on there in recent years. Unfortunately, comprehensive information is unavailable... I think.

Getting There 

Take Whitney Portal Road west from the town of Big Pine, past Alabama Hills, and up into the mountains until it dead ends at the trailhead for Mt. Whitney. Pretty simple.

Current Weather 



Climbing Season



Weather station 14.9 miles from here

71 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',11],['5.10',39],['5.11',9],['5.12',9],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whitney Portal:
Omer's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   El Gaucho
Inknobvious Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   El Gaucho
Lizard King   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Beach
Beckey Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   El Segundo Buttress
Puppy Woof   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 40'   El Gaucho
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack")   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Sheltering Sky   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Candlelight Buttress
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 520'   Premier Buttress
Nimbus   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Ghostrider   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Mountaineers Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   The Beach
No Country For Old Men   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Mean Streak   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches   Whitney Portal Buttress
Arc de Triomphe   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1200'   Parisian Buttress
Bony Fingers   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   The Whale
Schrodinger's Cat   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   The Beach, Right Side
Gangway   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Green Gecko   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Candlelight Wall
Browse More Classics in Whitney Portal

Featured Route For Whitney Portal
Mean Streak, Whitney Portal Buttress, Whitney Port...

Mean Streak 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A1 R  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Whitney Portal Buttress
Mean Streak is a 10 pitch route up far the right margin of the buttress. Great rock and a variety of stellar cracks and thin face climbing make this a worthy adventure for the experienced climber. Begin to right of the highest pine at base of wall, up right from Clouds route. Look up and left for 1st bolt leading to small roofs, three more bolts lead to a ledge (a bit runout). The route is named for the second pitch; a long left leaning, left facing corner with a dark streak running do...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Whitney Portal Slideshow Add Photo
A sea of stone
A sea of stone
The Granite of Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
The Granite of Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
The Portal
The Portal
Mt. Whitney, above Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo...
Mt. Whitney, above Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo...
Knob-pullin' below Whitney Portal Buttress
Knob-pullin' below Whitney Portal Buttress
Lone Pine Creek Cascades at Whitney Portal. Photo ...
Lone Pine Creek Cascades at Whitney Portal. Photo ...
Whitney Portal Buttress, with the routes Sartoris ...
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal Buttress, with the routes Sartoris ...
First Ascent Sartoris, Steve Eddy, middle face
First Ascent Sartoris, Steve Eddy, middle face
Lone Pine Creek - June '05
Lone Pine Creek - June '05
Jerome latching the only good edge on the seam.
Jerome latching the only good edge on the seam.
Russ climbing, "Stop me before I drill again&...
Russ climbing, "Stop me before I drill again&...
Mt Whitney on the right, Keeler Needle in the midd...
Mt Whitney on the right, Keeler Needle in the midd...
ooohh ice bouldering at whitney portal!
ooohh ice bouldering at whitney portal!
Whitney Portal Store menu, Whitney Portal
Whitney Portal Store menu, Whitney Portal
Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
First Ascent of Sartoris, WPB, Dave Blacck
First Ascent of Sartoris, WPB, Dave Blacck
View of the valley and Whitney Portal Road
View of the valley and Whitney Portal Road
First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett
First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett
Thistle at Whitney Portal
Thistle at Whitney Portal
Bob Harrington, Susan Peplow, Darla Harrington, Ru...
Bob Harrington, Susan Peplow, Darla Harrington, Ru...
Andrew Thomas attempting the top-out on the seam (...
Andrew Thomas attempting the top-out on the seam (...
Lone Pine Creek Cascade. Photo by Blitzo.
Lone Pine Creek Cascade. Photo by Blitzo.
Whitney Portal
Whitney Portal

Comments on Whitney Portal Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2014
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 6, 2007
The Whitney Portal Road leaves from the town of Lone Pine about 40 miles south of Big Pine. Head west from Big Pine if you want to go to the Palisades or Temple Crag.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Mar 7, 2007
Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer.

maximuspress.com/
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 7, 2007
"Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer."

Yeah LuLu, where's our guides? Less handyman, more publication!

......waiting

~Susan
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Sep 14, 2007
Looks like the guidebook is delayed to Winter 2007.
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 17, 2007
It's winter 2007. Hope to see that new guide soon, Marty. Lots of recent FA activity. I've seen the Portal proofs, it'll be a good guide.
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 18, 2007
For those interested in the Portal but concerned about those old 1/4" manky bolts: Thanks to ASCA support over 250 bolts have been replaced with stainless fatties in the past couple of years, and next year will see more replacement activity. And of course, everything new has bolts that are up to code. For information on which routes have been replaced:

safeclimbing.org/areas/califor...
(sorry, can't seem to get the thing to leave the ".htm" alone)

The list is fairly current as of this post, but still needs an update for Candlelight Buttress where all but a handful of bolts where replaced late in the year.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 11, 2008


New guide is ready to ship. Order your copy today at Maximus Press
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Mar 25, 2009
Thanks to the ASCA, Johnny Woodward, Darrell Hensell, SP Parker, and everyone else who invested their time in rebolting this area. Thanks also to Peter Croft and Marty Lewis for putting together such a nice guide. Now I am psyched to go climb there.
By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2011
How late in the season can one reasonably expect to climb here?
By Darrell Hensel
Sep 21, 2011
Late October, early/mid November typically. If tripping to get there, planning anything later than that is getting risky. In light winters trips can even be managed year round if there is enough time between storms for melt.

A good share of the routes face south, and walls like The Goucho, Roadwork, and The Poolhall are lower so a little warmer and less of a problem if there is some snow. But it's 8,000' so by November it can get frigid when things go in the shade.

The other problem is that once big enough fall storms hit the road is closed (at least technically), also physically if there's enough snow - even if some walls do melt back out.

In summary, if you want to be reasonably comfortable, and have all walls accessible, plan on early November being the end of the good window. But, as mentioned it can still vary depending on the harshness of the particular years weather. Long answer to a simple question, I know.

fyi - if you're tripping through, it would be good to have the guide. Lot's of stuff in the guide that isn't posted here. Plus there's stuff that is too new for the guide also. Plenty to do. And the ASCA replacement effort has now done the majority of the routes - at all walls except perhaps the Portal Buttress where some of the longer routes haven't been replaced (slackers!).
By Tane Owens
From: Denver, CO
Aug 19, 2013
This area has a massive amount of unclimbed (or undocumented) pitches. The wall across from the beach only has one established route that I could find in the guidebook, but it looks like there are many different options for climbing. Also, just upstream from this wall looks like the potential for a fun and steep one pitch bolted/mixed crag. Is there any reason that none of this area has been climbed?
By dave wave
Oct 11, 2013
Anyone have any info on the OW near the bathroom in the portal campground??

I believe it's right near the last loop across from the biggest campsite(w/ the massive flat top boulder in the back ground).

It looks wicked...leans diagnal to the left, about 5 deg overhang, looks like it has a small ledge on the left 3/4 up the route. Has TR bolts.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 11, 2013
The OW is like 5.10 or 5.10+

Thread here: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Here are some photos stolen from Big Bob Bolton and Robs Muir:


OW in campground
OW in campground




OW in campground
OW in campground
By dave wave
Oct 11, 2013
Thanks for the info Russ....looks like a pretty classy line.
By Jay Schenk
From: Imperial Beach, CA
Oct 17, 2014
looking for partner to climb in whitney portal october through november. 5.10, 5.11. trad is rad. let me know