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Whitestone Cliffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Whitestone Cliffs

Athena Rock 12 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

Lower Cliff 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Lower Lower Cliff 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Main Slab 18 / 0 / 25 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29

Right Side 9 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Upper Tier 2 / 0 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

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Elevation:	647 ft
GPS:	41.62105, -73.05439 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	78,804 total · 655/month
Shared By:	Kurtz on Jun 9, 2014
Admins:	Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This crag is found in the Mattatuck State Forest east of Rt. 8. It comprised of five main crags. The rock is good quality gneiss with trad and TR routes ranging from 5.3 - 5.11. Climbers have been visiting Whitestone since the 1930s and as such many of the routes have long histories.

Getting There

From Route 8 (North or South) take Exit 37 and turn onto Rt. 262 East. Cross the Naugatuck River and turn right onto Waterbury Rd. at the T junction. Take the first left onto Spruce Brook Rd. In 1.3 miles, look for a pull-off on the left that holds about 5-6 cars. GPS Coordinates: (N 41.61893, W 73.04962) .

BEWARE of the protruding rock in the center of the Parking Area !

Pass the metal barrier and hike up a rocky jeep trail. After about 100 yards, take a right turn onto the blue-blazed Whitestone Cliffs Trail. After a couple more minutes, the trail crests a rise and, as it starts downhill, take a right turn

off the jeep trail, sharply downhill to a brook. Cross the small wooden bridge and follow the blue blazes uphill until the trail becomes a rock scramble.

, turn left and follow the wall for the Right Side climbs, the base of Main Slab, or the Lower Lower Cliff.

-OR-

Continue on the hiking trail up the rock and then take a left on a faint climbers trail to reach the top of Main Slab or Lower Cliff.

The approach is about 1/2 mile and it takes about 20 minutes to reach any of the areas.

76 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whitestone Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 18 ● Stone Age Trad, TR Main Slab
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 14 ● Going Vertical Trad, TR Main Slab
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 4 ● Olden Way Trad, TR Main Slab
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 7 ● Tree Skirt Trad, TR Main Slab
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 11 ● Smokehouse Trad, TR Main Slab
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Dreadlock Trad, TR Right Side
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 4 ● Belly Flop Trad Main Slab
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Structures Trad, TR Right Side
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 9 ● Nectar of the Gods Trad, TR Main Slab
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 6 ● Super Stout Trad, TR Main Slab