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Sundance Buttress
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Whiteman T 

Whiteman 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill/John Long (FFA)
Page Views: 2,520
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Whiteman goes up the thin flake system until you c...

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Description 

On the buttress between Guillotine and Mainliner are several flake/crack lines that are climbable. Whiteman takes the right-most of these. Look up; you're heading for the base of a beautiful, changing corners pitch.

P1 5.11c - Climb flakes and cracks, protecting with small wires and stoppers. Clip two bolts for the traverse to the belay in the bottom of the crack.

P2 5.11 - Climb the changing corners to thed top. Beautiful, thin stemming and jamming. Bachar backed off this pitch saying it needed pins to protect, leaving it to girl to do the FFA. It protects well with small cams.

Protection 

Cams to thin hand size. Lots of small wires/RPs.


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By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2001

Thanks for adding this gem, Malcolm. Does anyone know if the bolts protecting the scratch-fest traverse have been replaced?
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 18, 2002

As of last summer, the bolts on the traverse were still quarter-inchers, but I don't believe it makes it unsafe. You can get a bomber piece at the top of the flake that you are leaving on the right, which backs up the rusty bolts. The anchor at the top of that pitch HAS been updated though, and the dihedral above provides excellent climbing. I highly recommend this route.
By paco
Mar 25, 2003

The two old bolts on the traverse have been replaced with new ones.
By david goldstein
Sep 12, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'd give each pitch two Lumpy stars. Don't skip the 2nd pitch which is steeper, better protected and arguably more enjoyable than the first. There is a rap station at the end of P2, but it is not too inspiring -- old, crusty slings girth hitched around wires etc; we partially fortified it but a couple of leaver biners and another piece w/ decent webbing would really help. 165' from the 2nd anchor to the base.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 27, 2005

I think this is deserving of 4 stars. Although only 2 pitches, probably my favorite route on Sundance.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 13, 2008

That girl that you refer to is a five time World Champion. That girl was the first person to free The Nose. Went back a year later and freed every pitch herself in a day. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated to this day (all pitches done free by one person in a day). That girl has been at the top of the climbing world for the better part of three decades. That girl still holds a bunch of power lifting records in her weight class. That girl only weighs about 100 pounds and can bench press 230. Can you bench two and a half times your weight? I met Lynn once in Smith Rocks. I was with a bunch of hardcore valley climbers embarrassing ourselves on Rude Boys. It's like 5.13c or something. Lynn roped up and flashed it. As John Long put it, if you went climbing with Lynn Hill, the only thing you would be good for is to hold her rope. :)
By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
May 4, 2010

Sorry for not posting beta rather a question. Is this the route that Craig Demartino mentioned he had an accident on in this article this article in Climbing magazine?
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 4, 2010

Yes....
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
May 16, 2012

Climbed for the first time yesterday. The first pitch has 2 bolts, one in the middle a little higher up from a piece in a small roof about halfway up the pitch.
The second is right before the belay. There are also two fixed wires on this pitch...as of now.
The second pitch is one of the best I have ever climbed at Lumpy Ridge. Stellar! Continue up past the shitty belay, hands, to the top of the pillar.