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Sundance Buttress
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Whiteman T 

Whiteman 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill/John Long (FFA)
Page Views: 2,787
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Jan 1, 2001

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Whiteman goes up the thin flake system until you c...

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  • Description 

    On the buttress between Guillotine and Mainliner are several flake/crack lines that are climbable. Whiteman takes the right-most of these. Look up; you're heading for the base of a beautiful, changing corners pitch.

    P1 5.11c - Climb flakes and cracks, protecting with small wires and stoppers. Clip two bolts for the traverse to the belay in the bottom of the crack.

    P2 5.11 - Climb the changing corners to thed top. Beautiful, thin stemming and jamming. Bachar backed off this pitch saying it needed pins to protect, leaving it to girl to do the FFA. It protects well with small cams.

    Protection 

    Cams to thin hand size. Lots of small wires/RPs.


    Comments on Whiteman Add Comment
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    By jason seaver
    From: Estes Park, CO
    Sep 18, 2002

    As of last summer, the bolts on the traverse were still quarter-inchers, but I don't believe it makes it unsafe. You can get a bomber piece at the top of the flake that you are leaving on the right, which backs up the rusty bolts. The anchor at the top of that pitch HAS been updated though, and the dihedral above provides excellent climbing. I highly recommend this route.
    By paco
    Mar 25, 2003

    The two old bolts on the traverse have been replaced with new ones.
    By david goldstein
    Sep 12, 2004
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I'd give each pitch two Lumpy stars. Don't skip the 2nd pitch which is steeper, better protected and arguably more enjoyable than the first. There is a rap station at the end of P2, but it is not too inspiring -- old, crusty slings girth hitched around wires etc; we partially fortified it but a couple of leaver biners and another piece w/ decent webbing would really help. 165' from the 2nd anchor to the base.
    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 27, 2005

    I think this is deserving of 4 stars. Although only 2 pitches, probably my favorite route on Sundance.
    By Bruce Diffenbaugh
    From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
    Mar 13, 2008

    That girl that you refer to is a five time World Champion. That girl was the first person to free The Nose. Went back a year later and freed every pitch herself in a day. As far as I know, it hasn't been repeated to this day (all pitches done free by one person in a day). That girl has been at the top of the climbing world for the better part of three decades. That girl still holds a bunch of power lifting records in her weight class. That girl only weighs about 100 pounds and can bench press 230. Can you bench two and a half times your weight? I met Lynn once in Smith Rocks. I was with a bunch of hardcore valley climbers embarrassing ourselves on Rude Boys. It's like 5.13c or something. Lynn roped up and flashed it. As John Long put it, if you went climbing with Lynn Hill, the only thing you would be good for is to hold her rope. :)
    By Drew McLean
    From: Colorado
    May 4, 2010

    Sorry for not posting beta rather a question. Is this the route that Craig Demartino mentioned he had an accident on in this article this article in Climbing magazine?
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    May 4, 2010

    Yes....
    By quinndalina
    From: Estes Park
    May 16, 2012

    Climbed for the first time yesterday. The first pitch has 2 bolts, one in the middle a little higher up from a piece in a small roof about halfway up the pitch.
    The second is right before the belay. There are also two fixed wires on this pitch...as of now.
    The second pitch is one of the best I have ever climbed at Lumpy Ridge. Stellar! Continue up past the shitty belay, hands, to the top of the pillar.
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