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Whitehorse Ledge

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1. The Cosmic Crag 
2. South Buttress 
3. Steak Sauce Boulder 
4. The Gargoyal Buttress 
5. Children's Crusade Wall 
6. Echo Roof 
7. The Slabs 
Whitehorse Ledge Boulders 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Whitehorse Ledge  


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Location: 44.0545, -71.1668 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 364,337
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 16, 2007
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A shot of Whitehorse from the road

Description 

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.

As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.

The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.

Getting There 

From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

88 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',41],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',9],['5.8',8],['5.9',16],['5.10',22],['5.11',15],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whitehorse Ledge:
Standard Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   7. The Slabs
Beginners Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   7. The Slabs
The Cormier-Magness Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 8 pitches, 1150'   7. The Slabs
Sliding Board   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   7. The Slabs
Sea of Holes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   7. The Slabs
Wave Length   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   7. The Slabs
Inferno   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 380'   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 PG13     Trad, Aid, 18 pitches, 2170'   7. The Slabs
Hotter Than Hell   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Loose Lips   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   6. Echo Roof
Seventh Seal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 50'   6. Echo Roof
Lost Souls   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Tranquility    5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
The Last Unicorn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall
Atlantis   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Interloper    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   7. The Slabs
Sleeping Beauty   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   6. Echo Roof
Ethereal Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 50'   6. Echo Roof
Children's Crusade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   5. Children's Crusade Wall
Future Shock   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   6. Echo Roof
Browse More Classics in Whitehorse Ledge

Featured Route For Whitehorse Ledge
Alexa on Loose Lips

Loose Lips 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 6. Echo Roof
Lean off the block to clip the first bolt. Make a spooky step across the divide and climb past 2 more bolts on very small holds gaining a nice rest and more good pro. Climb down and left to a flake/crack that you will follow up and left to easier climbing and a two bolt anchor. There are two cruxes in my opinion; the bolted section is definitely one of them and also the first part of the flake though not as hard it is challenging (small wires help protect this part). It's a nice 5.10a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Whitehorse Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Nice day for a white wedding
Nice day for a white wedding
Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt t...
Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt t...
its all about light and fast these days... this is...
its all about light and fast these days... this is...
Laura Halupowski on P.1 of Dark Horse
Laura Halupowski on P.1 of Dark Horse
this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see...
this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see...
an overview of Whitehorse...
BETA PHOTO: an overview of Whitehorse...
looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard rout...
looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard rout...
May 16 and plenty of snow on Mount Washington.Phot...
May 16 and plenty of snow on Mount Washington.Phot...
Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring ...
BETA PHOTO: Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring ...
the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledg...
the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledg...
Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board
Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board

Comments on Whitehorse Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2008
Today a friend and i did a really fun link up on the slabs taking South buttress of wankers wall 5.8R, to beginners direct 5.6R to a few pitches that dont seem to belong to any route to the right of standard, to the top... it was really fun!

after years on the slabs its fun to just go climb around and see what links up well...
try it sometime...
do you have any fave slab link ups...
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Mar 15, 2010
went to whitehorse on the 4th of march an the bottom of ethereal crack looked like a war zone. there was a large rock fall sometime this winter.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Oct 17, 2010
a friend and i want to do a route here and im just wondering what is a Whitehorse rack.Im just curious about how many runners,slings and so on for this climb.nuts or cams.what works best.i have a set of 1-7 nuts
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 25, 2012
Here's a typical Whitehorse Slabs rack: a few draws, half dozen full-length slings, set of stoppers, a few cams from .5" to 2.5", and Tricams (to blue, handy in the many solution pockets). There's a lot of fixed gear on the popular routes and most of the belays are also fixed. The runouts are substantial (certainly on the easier routes) so go light on the rack---on many pitches 5.7 and below you may only be getting 3-5 pieces per pitch. But don't fear, the slabs are a friendly place and long, skin-grating slides are rare. Also, the walk-off is fast and pleasant and rapping may dump you right on top of other parties---please be considerate. Although it is possible to rap with one 60m rope, it takes a fair bit of cunning, so if you don't know the cliff well and plan to rappel, bring two ropes.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 29, 2012
Excellent comment Peter!
By michael sershen
Apr 8, 2013
We found a piece of gear near the base of Hotter than Hell. Maybe somebody dropped it when racking up or on rappel. PM me with a description if you want it back.