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Whitehorse Ledge
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1. The Cosmic Crag 
2. South Buttress 
3. Steak Sauce Boulder 
4. The Gargoyal Buttress 
5. Children's Crusade Wall 
6. Echo Roof 
7. The Slabs 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge 

Whitehorse Ledge 


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Lat, Long: 44.0545, -71.1668 Map
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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 16, 2007

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A shot of Whitehorse from the road

Description 

Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.

As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.

The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.

Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.

The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.


Getting There 

From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot.
The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whitehorse Ledge:
Standard Route   5.5 R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100 feet   7. The Slabs
Beginners Route   5.5 R     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000 feet   7. The Slabs
Sliding Board   5.7 R     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet   7. The Slabs
Sea of Holes   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches   7. The Slabs
Inferno   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 380 feet   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Wave Length   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches   7. The Slabs
Hotter Than Hell   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Cold Day in Hell   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Seventh Seal   5.10a     Trad, 50 feet   6. Echo Roof
Loose Lips   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   6. Echo Roof
Lost Souls   5.10a/b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
The Last Unicorn   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III   2. South Buttress : Wonder Wall
Tranquility    5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Atlantis   5.10b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   2. South Buttress : Atlantis Area
Sleeping Beauty   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   6. Echo Roof
Interloper    5.10c R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet   7. The Slabs
Ethereal Crack   5.10d     Trad, 50 feet   6. Echo Roof
Children's Crusade   5.11a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   5. Children's Crusade Wall
Future Shock   5.11a     Trad, 2 pitches   6. Echo Roof
The Eliminate   5.11c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   5. Children's Crusade Wall
Browse More Classics in Whitehorse Ledge

Featured Route For Whitehorse Ledge
The first pitch.

Children's Crusade 5.11a  NH : Whitehorse Ledge : 5. Children's Crusade Wall
Pitch 1: climb up the left-leaning dike and traverse right at an angle piton in a solution pocket, make technical moves up a overlap clipping two well spaced bolts. Make a difficult, mantle move (crux)stand up and clip a bolt (with relief) and follow the left trending dike on square cut holds to a two bolt anchor on the left.Pitch 2: climb just right of the belay on small holds protected by two bolts. Continue up overlaps, placing traditional gear trending left to a two bolt anchor.Pitch 3: fro...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Whitehorse Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledge

the Whitehorse slabs as viewed from cathedral ledg...

looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard route...

looking up at me from lunch ledge on standard rout...

this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see from the rain clouds over Whitehorse, but it was a great day for my wife to play in puddles... no she will never grow up....

this wasn't a good day for climbing as you can see...

an overview of Whitehorse...

BETA PHOTO: an overview of Whitehorse...

Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt the Whitehorse Standard Route.Possible free climbing course from EMS if you recognize the climber.Sorry its been won .....

Mystery Climber from the 1970's about to attempt t...

Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring a map, so we just picked a random climb, I believe that this one is beginners route. Got bored half way up, and made a detour to some blueberry bushes up on the right side, some weird lichen/rock climbing to get there. Fun times.

BETA PHOTO: Climbing the slabs of Whitehorse. Forgot to bring ...

Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board

Beginning of fall from up on Sliding Board

May 16 and plenty of snow on Mount Washington.Photo by Loran Smith

May 16 and plenty of snow on Mount Washington.Phot...

its all about light and fast these days... this is Lily's light and fast "survival" kit...

its all about light and fast these days... this is...


Comments on Whitehorse Ledge Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2008

Today a friend and i did a really fun link up on the slabs taking South buttress of wankers wall 5.8R, to beginners direct 5.6R to a few pitches that dont seem to belong to any route to the right of standard, to the top... it was really fun!

after years on the slabs its fun to just go climb around and see what links up well...
try it sometime...
do you have any fave slab link ups...

By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Mar 15, 2010

went to whitehorse on the 4th of march an the bottom of ethereal crack looked like a war zone. there was a large rock fall sometime this winter.

By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Oct 17, 2010

a friend and i want to do a route here and im just wondering what is a Whitehorse rack.Im just curious about how many runners,slings and so on for this climb.nuts or cams.what works best.i have a set of 1-7 nuts

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 25, 2012

Here's a typical Whitehorse Slabs rack: a few draws, half dozen full-lenght slings, set of stoppers, a few cams from .5" to 2.5", and Tricams (to blue, handy in the many solution pockets). There's a lot of fixed gear on the popular routes and most of the belays are also fixed. The runouts are substantial (certainly on the easier routes) so go light on the rack---on many pitches 5.7 and below you may only be getting 3-5 pieces per pitch. But don't fear, the slabs are a friendly place and long, skin-grating slides are rare. Also, the walk-off is fast and pleasant and rapping may dump you right on top of other parties---please be considerate. Although it is possible to rap with one 60m rope, it takes a fair bit of cunning, so if you don't know the cliff well and plan to rappel, bring two ropes.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 29, 2012

Excellent comment Peter!

By michael sershen
Apr 8, 2013

We found a piece of gear near the base of Hotter than Hell. Maybe somebody dropped it when racking up or on rappel. PM me with a description if you want it back.